The Road Goes Ever On and On..

This article was originally published in the Washtenaw Voice, the newest extension of my Graphic Design/Photography studies. It was not an easy feat trying to condense my trip into 1100 words (as I'm sure you can guess by my typically-wordy entries), but it was a rewarding challenge to embrace. It also featured a sneak peak of images, of which you readers will see much more in the coming weeks! I hope you enjoy.

I've followed countless times as Bilbo runs impulsively from his door at Bag End – past the pigs, through the vegetable garden, and over the weathered fence, gaining momentum as he races along the footpaths of Hobbiton. His eager anticipation is palpable, as the first steps of his journey unfold. When asked where he is off to in such a hurry, Bilbo shouts the essential mantra for every soul propelled by wanderlust: “I’m going on an adventure!”

Without a doubt, this adventure is real. I can tell you I've stood at the gate of Bag End and gazed upon the rolling hills of Hobbiton. I've lain in the grass where Bilbo’s 111th birthday party was held. And when I couldn't take any more photos of the iconic landscape from my childhood musings, I was presented with a complimentary beer at the Green Dragon Inn.

Arriving in Middle Earth marked the realization of a goal I had set for myself many moons ago. The goal was simple: Travel to New Zealand within the next five years. I arrived with three months to spare in the fifth year – and no shortage of spirit.

“There is nothing like looking, if you want to find something… but it is not always quite the something you were after.”

Unlike my own journey, Bilbo’s was indeed quite unexpected. I am sure many of us can identify with the reluctance Bilbo felt before leaving the comforts of his own home in search of adventure.

But without challenging opportunities, how are we expected to test our resolve? Bilbo did not find the Ring in a pretty field with flowers, and we also must embrace uncomfortable, sometimes dark, situations if we hope to uncover treasures of great worth.

With Hobbiton checked off my must-do list, I joined an adventure bus that gave riders the chance to experience New Zealand as a dynamic and cohesive tour. I had embarked on this trip alone, and was concerned that the personalities in the group might interfere with my wanderings and wonderings.

What surprised me was how quickly this mixed bag of international travelers was able to foster a meaningful atmosphere – group dinners, family photos, cakes and cards celebrating the birthdays of recent-strangers.

“There are no safe paths in this part of the world. Remember you are over the Edge of the Wild now, and in for all sorts of fun wherever you go.”

It didn’t take long for me to get attached to my new companions. They pushed me to explore adventures that even my typically open mind had written off. On the eve of one particular day-trip, my roommate took it upon herself to convince me I should join.

Her efforts resulted in one of the best highlights from my trip: driving through a lush rainforest to go hiking on a frozen glacier. “It’s just ice,” I had told myself, but the vast, constantly moving landscape presented a staggering purity that I’ll never forget. To be such a minute visitor in a wild arena capable of such natural force was awesome in the truest form.

Above-ground hiking was not our only wild encounter. Donning wetsuits and rubber boots, we spent an afternoon crawling and squeezing our way through the glowworm caves of Planet Earth fame. I’m not sure what I expected, but I found myself encased in a few tight spaces desperately fighting off claustrophobic paranoia.

You can do it. Don’t be a wimp. If he can fit through, so can you. None of the typical mantras brought any relief; my only motivation was the understanding that forward motion was the only thing keeping me alive.

When I look back, I realize that my moments of confinement account for less than 10 percent of the afternoon, which helps me to recall the canopy of luminescence and the bellows of group laughter more clearly.

I also consider the fact that Bilbo, while equipped with the Ring, did not have any glowworms or friends to help him find his way out. (I’d like to note that there are multiple ways to experience the infamous glowworms that do not require any amount of hiking or squealing. Please do not be dissuaded.)

It was encounters like these that allowed me to trust more fully – both in my own capabilities and in my communion with others. But as much as I had come to appreciate the benefits of my close-knit group, I resolved to cut ties with what was familiar and easy and comfortable, and once again venture out on my own.

“If more of us valued food and cheer and song above hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world.”

I spent a few weeks dating myself. Romantic dinners were enjoyed pouring over a new book, while generous glasses of wine continued to pour nearby. Lazy days were spent entirely in bed.

Photo walks through the numerous gardens were followed by late-night strolls along the harbor. Intimate moments were shared with complete strangers, as I remained open to the intelligence and stimulation within.

Make it a point to find and enjoy local delights – there are plenty of adventures hidden within daily endeavors if you are just willing to dig a little.

Maybe you’ll jump in a car with five strangers to see a live rugby match, but I can guarantee you won’t come home strangers. Maybe you’ll book a flight to see that seven-piece funky-soul-reggae band and discover a native ghost along the way.

Perhaps you can splurge and attend a red carpet premiere of the latest Hobbit film. But what do I know? I’m just some girl who stuffed her life in a backpack and boarded a plane.

Just as Bilbo took a leap of faith in leaving the comforts of Bag End, I encourage everyone to rebuke the complacency that comes with material possessions, and take the first steps of your own adventure.

You may find that a lack of tangible distractions allows a clearer sense of identity and confidence to shine through, whether you share it with companions or treasure it internally. An adventure can be in the next neighborhood or the next country, just as long as it removes you from your comfort zone.

Through the soaring highs and the heavy lows, I have found more fulfillment and satisfaction in three months of wandering than in years spent on my own couch. Because when it comes down to it, each of us is “just a little fellow, in a wide world after all.”

The road goes ever on.. The start of the tramping trail. Waiheke Island, NZ.

Tramping trail on the coast of Waiheke Island, NZ.

An inviting Hobbit hole in Hobbiton. Matamata, NZ.

The Party Tree of Bilbo's infamous 111th birthday party, with view of the Green Dragon Inn. Matamata, NZ.

Down from the door where it began.. Bag End and its gate. Matamata, NZ.

Group photo with Stray family, in front of Gollum's Waterfall. Tongariro National Park, NZ.

Milky Way over Blue Duck Station. Owhango, NZ.

The lighter side of Mt Doom (Mt Ngauruhoe). Tongariro National Park, NZ.

Cape Foulwind walkway along the West coast of NZ's South Island.

Silhouette group photo through a cave on Fox River, NZ.

Glacial wave-like ice formation on Fox Glacier, NZ.

Hiking across Fox Glacier with a backdrop of the rain forest.

Mirror Lakes reflecting the Misty Mountains (Southern Alps) of NZ's South Island.

Waterfall inside of Milford Sound, NZ.

Taiaroa Head Lighthouse. Otago Peninsula, NZ.

Coastline along the Otago Peninsula, NZ.

Moeraki Boulder, naturally occurring spherical boulders along Koekohe Beach, NZ.

There are 10-14 sheep for every one human in New Zealand. Seen here just below Castle Hill, NZ.

Re:START Stacks. Following the earthquake, businesses reopened in shipping containers. Christchurch, NZ.

An 'angel' hangs suspended during a late night Arts Festival in downtown Christchurch, NZ.

Mud Battle. A hostel group lathers up with mud from hot geothermal pools in Rotorua, NZ.

Reflecting pool outside of The Gallery and Cafe in Helena Bay Hill. Bay of Islands, NZ.

Moureeses Bay. Bay of Islands, NZ.

Wine and appetizers were complimentary at the premiere of the Hobbit. Embassy Theater, Wellington, NZ. 

Carve Your Own Path

After the Tribe's decision to keep me on the bus, I felt at peace as we entered the South Island. Things quickly felt normal as we drove through what our driver Karlyn referred to as "the hippiest town in NZ".. the frequency of dreads and extra piercings made me feel like I was right back in Ann Arbor. The sophistication level changed as we stopped for a wine tasting at Drylands, though no one feels particularly sophisticated when you're drinking at 10 am.

Our first night in the South Island was spent just outside of Abel Tasman National Park, in Marahau. Karlyn served a family BBQ, and a relaxing evening was spent around the outdoor fireplace. That is, until the grunting PigDog arrived to terrorize Nico. Even I had a hard time finding love for this hybrid (perhaps inbred) creature. Gifted with two nights in the same place, we finally had the opportunity to sleep in late! Most of the group got up early for a hike, but my room of Ruth, Róna, Nathalie, and Rebecca decided to take full advantage of the extra time. I got up just in time to tag along with Nat for paddle boarding; our day off was turning out to be the best weather we'd had yet. Time on the water was quite refreshing, and we followed it up by getting a proper tan on the lawn once the other girls had woken up. Róna and I shared an invigorating trek before dinner, deciding that it's worth waiting for a mate who is equally as picky - he should be waiting for exactly the person you are too. The pursuit of live music led a group of us to check out a local band down the street.. They had a pretty cool flyer design. That's about the only nice thing I can say.. Should have listened to band-managing expert, Elaine.

By this point in the trip, I had already mailed home my failing little moccasins and was on the hunt for a new pair of 'fashionable' shoes. Somehow hiking boots and Keen water sandals just don't match dresses and dancing. The Universe heard my request, and provided me with brand new shoes (via Marie). I am sorry that they were just barely too small for you, Marie, but I am thankful for your generosity and the fact that they fit my toes perfectly.

The following day, Cape Foulwind walkway was an opportunity for magnificent coastline scenes and natural seal colonies. Our daily group photo was a creative shot using a coastal cave to create silhouettes. The caves were attached to none other than the Fox* River. I can't explain their formation, but we also saw thinly layered Pancake Rocks and runway impressions by Róna in Punakaiki.


A short while earlier, Karlyn informed us that this evening we would be partaking in his version of Come Dine With Me. I was unfamiliar with the TV show, but essentially the contestants each cook a meal and everyone votes on a winner. Since half of our bus was either Irish or English, it was decided that Switzerland would be responsible for the main dish and they would be competing against a dessert from the US. Let it be known that I was the only American on the bus, and am much more comfortable cooking than baking. No matter, can't back down from a challenge. It should also be noted that Elaine was a very dedicated sous chef, though I don't think I could have kept her away from the ingredients if I tried.

If any of you have had the honor of reading the Stout Family Cookbook, you can understand why I used up valuable international minutes to text Kitchen Czar Sue. First, I thought of making Apple Crisp or Key Lime Pie. Apple Crisp has other international variations so it was out. Key limes are so unique! But too unique to be found in a random NZ grocery store. I debated for a longggg time whether to attempt Baked Raspberry Alaskan, but just knew that it would never live up to the delicate beauty that emerges from the Hillside oven one special day each year. (By the way, Uncle Bob Vance is the only person on earth for whom my mother will bake a separate one. Good on you, Uncle Bobert!)

I sent a few frantic emails to Mom, hoping to get recipes in time for our daily grocery stop. Little did I remember that she was spending a relaxing girls weekend up north (any furry friends this year?!), and wasn't able to respond. Thankfully, the Universe gave me free wireless at the grocery store - free, working wifi in NZ is truly a miracle - and Dad had come to the rescue with the suggestion and recipe for Oreo Ice Cream Dessert. Longg story short, Marina and Nico cooked a mouth-watering Swiss dish of ham, cheese, potatoes, pasta, and apples.. and both the crowd and Karlyn decided my Oreo Ice Cream Dessert was good enough to declare a draw. A very satisfying (and filling) evening.


The next morning I was the only member of the group to choose the Bone Carving activity. This meant that I had four solid hours of time with not only Karlyn, but Karen and Dana Vincent of Skeleton Crew Carving Studio. Three cups of coffee, a few carving tools, a camouflaged outhouse, and a playlist swap later, I emerged with my proudest creation yet. I know that everyone in the organic and festival worlds wears bone carvings around their necks and in their ears, and it's cool that you bought it from that really heady vendor you met for seven minutes one summer. But I designed, carved, engraved, and sanded this puppy myself. Every single curve has a meaning, every line has a story. As Karlyn said, it's the only activity in NZ that you get to take home, and I am proud to wear a token of my unique journey.

After Punakaiki, we moved down the west coast and arrived at Franz Josef, the home of NZ's most famous glacier. Notorious for its unpredictable weather, it was not a huge surprise that the helicopter ride and hike for Franz was cancelled. Thanks to some detective work by Marina and Knut, we learned that the nearby Fox* Glacier might still be an option. And what an option it turned out to be! I am eternally grateful for Elaine's late night pep talk about the unique magnificence of glacial encounters, and I can now firmly agree. It's just dirty ice, you say.. And yet one can't help but know that the frozen landscape beneath your feet is alive . The guide said that changes happen so frequently that they have to forge a new hiking route every few weeks. A truly humbling experience. We spent the evening celebrating Nico's birthday - complete with a birthday card signed by everyone and a cake with candles. Even Mary T found something positive to say about him. Family love runs deep.


The next morning I stumbled upon the Gold Standard in Raspberry Jams. It was the highlight of a day otherwise filled with rain-soaked scenic stops and crabby passengers. I will find more of this jam. Preliminary research suggests the brand may be Anathoth Farm, but reports are still unconfirmed. Hey Universe, here's your cue..


Folks tell me they loved Wanaka. I don't know if it was the underwhelming visit to Puzzle World (in fairness, I was way too excited about it), or the general air of exhaustion on our bus, but we only had eyes for Queenstown. Quick stops at Mrs Jones Fruit Stand in Cromwell and the Nevis Bungy Jump, where I watched my Tigers force a Game 5 against Oakland. Again, Universe.. sincere thanks for the perfectly timed free internet. We arrived in Queenstown on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, where I stood for my last group photo with Stray.. =(

Maybe I didn't care for Wanaka because it signaled the imminent end to a beautiful chapter. Maybe I was already feeling empty inside at the thought of parting ways with my people. Or maybe I was just really hungry. As a solution to both of my inner voids, we organized a group dinner in Queenstown, as an early birthday party for Karlyn. It was so cool to see a table full of friends, sharing heartfelt conversations and genuine laughter.

I had the overwhelming honor of being elected to give Karlyn's birthday speech. I spoke about how less than two weeks ago, none of us had met. From Auckland, through Wellington, and now down to Queenstown.. We had picked up Stray travelers along the way and had added them to our family. I told Karlyn that the knowledge and passion and love he felt for his country had allowed him to selflessly provide us with the most thorough experience possible. After speaking with other travelers, I had learned just how unique Karlyn's approach was as a driver. He continually went out of his way to cater to each of our needs. He never skipped potential photo ops, and he always encouraged us to pursue the activities that meant the most to us. Multiple times he had expressed his lack of interest in LOTR affairs by referring to hobbits as "the little g-nomey things", and yet when he could see it was on MY list of interests, my trip to Hobbiton was more than encouraged.

I had grown accustomed to my fearless leader, to my Stray wolf pack. But whether I felt ready or not, it was time to carve my own path..


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*Foxes are my favorite // spirit animal.