The Road Goes Ever On and On..

This article was originally published in the Washtenaw Voice, the newest extension of my Graphic Design/Photography studies. It was not an easy feat trying to condense my trip into 1100 words (as I'm sure you can guess by my typically-wordy entries), but it was a rewarding challenge to embrace. It also featured a sneak peak of images, of which you readers will see much more in the coming weeks! I hope you enjoy.

I've followed countless times as Bilbo runs impulsively from his door at Bag End – past the pigs, through the vegetable garden, and over the weathered fence, gaining momentum as he races along the footpaths of Hobbiton. His eager anticipation is palpable, as the first steps of his journey unfold. When asked where he is off to in such a hurry, Bilbo shouts the essential mantra for every soul propelled by wanderlust: “I’m going on an adventure!”

Without a doubt, this adventure is real. I can tell you I've stood at the gate of Bag End and gazed upon the rolling hills of Hobbiton. I've lain in the grass where Bilbo’s 111th birthday party was held. And when I couldn't take any more photos of the iconic landscape from my childhood musings, I was presented with a complimentary beer at the Green Dragon Inn.

Arriving in Middle Earth marked the realization of a goal I had set for myself many moons ago. The goal was simple: Travel to New Zealand within the next five years. I arrived with three months to spare in the fifth year – and no shortage of spirit.

“There is nothing like looking, if you want to find something… but it is not always quite the something you were after.”

Unlike my own journey, Bilbo’s was indeed quite unexpected. I am sure many of us can identify with the reluctance Bilbo felt before leaving the comforts of his own home in search of adventure.

But without challenging opportunities, how are we expected to test our resolve? Bilbo did not find the Ring in a pretty field with flowers, and we also must embrace uncomfortable, sometimes dark, situations if we hope to uncover treasures of great worth.

With Hobbiton checked off my must-do list, I joined an adventure bus that gave riders the chance to experience New Zealand as a dynamic and cohesive tour. I had embarked on this trip alone, and was concerned that the personalities in the group might interfere with my wanderings and wonderings.

What surprised me was how quickly this mixed bag of international travelers was able to foster a meaningful atmosphere – group dinners, family photos, cakes and cards celebrating the birthdays of recent-strangers.

“There are no safe paths in this part of the world. Remember you are over the Edge of the Wild now, and in for all sorts of fun wherever you go.”

It didn’t take long for me to get attached to my new companions. They pushed me to explore adventures that even my typically open mind had written off. On the eve of one particular day-trip, my roommate took it upon herself to convince me I should join.

Her efforts resulted in one of the best highlights from my trip: driving through a lush rainforest to go hiking on a frozen glacier. “It’s just ice,” I had told myself, but the vast, constantly moving landscape presented a staggering purity that I’ll never forget. To be such a minute visitor in a wild arena capable of such natural force was awesome in the truest form.

Above-ground hiking was not our only wild encounter. Donning wetsuits and rubber boots, we spent an afternoon crawling and squeezing our way through the glowworm caves of Planet Earth fame. I’m not sure what I expected, but I found myself encased in a few tight spaces desperately fighting off claustrophobic paranoia.

You can do it. Don’t be a wimp. If he can fit through, so can you. None of the typical mantras brought any relief; my only motivation was the understanding that forward motion was the only thing keeping me alive.

When I look back, I realize that my moments of confinement account for less than 10 percent of the afternoon, which helps me to recall the canopy of luminescence and the bellows of group laughter more clearly.

I also consider the fact that Bilbo, while equipped with the Ring, did not have any glowworms or friends to help him find his way out. (I’d like to note that there are multiple ways to experience the infamous glowworms that do not require any amount of hiking or squealing. Please do not be dissuaded.)

It was encounters like these that allowed me to trust more fully – both in my own capabilities and in my communion with others. But as much as I had come to appreciate the benefits of my close-knit group, I resolved to cut ties with what was familiar and easy and comfortable, and once again venture out on my own.

“If more of us valued food and cheer and song above hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world.”

I spent a few weeks dating myself. Romantic dinners were enjoyed pouring over a new book, while generous glasses of wine continued to pour nearby. Lazy days were spent entirely in bed.

Photo walks through the numerous gardens were followed by late-night strolls along the harbor. Intimate moments were shared with complete strangers, as I remained open to the intelligence and stimulation within.

Make it a point to find and enjoy local delights – there are plenty of adventures hidden within daily endeavors if you are just willing to dig a little.

Maybe you’ll jump in a car with five strangers to see a live rugby match, but I can guarantee you won’t come home strangers. Maybe you’ll book a flight to see that seven-piece funky-soul-reggae band and discover a native ghost along the way.

Perhaps you can splurge and attend a red carpet premiere of the latest Hobbit film. But what do I know? I’m just some girl who stuffed her life in a backpack and boarded a plane.

Just as Bilbo took a leap of faith in leaving the comforts of Bag End, I encourage everyone to rebuke the complacency that comes with material possessions, and take the first steps of your own adventure.

You may find that a lack of tangible distractions allows a clearer sense of identity and confidence to shine through, whether you share it with companions or treasure it internally. An adventure can be in the next neighborhood or the next country, just as long as it removes you from your comfort zone.

Through the soaring highs and the heavy lows, I have found more fulfillment and satisfaction in three months of wandering than in years spent on my own couch. Because when it comes down to it, each of us is “just a little fellow, in a wide world after all.”

The road goes ever on.. The start of the tramping trail. Waiheke Island, NZ.

Tramping trail on the coast of Waiheke Island, NZ.

An inviting Hobbit hole in Hobbiton. Matamata, NZ.

The Party Tree of Bilbo's infamous 111th birthday party, with view of the Green Dragon Inn. Matamata, NZ.

Down from the door where it began.. Bag End and its gate. Matamata, NZ.

Group photo with Stray family, in front of Gollum's Waterfall. Tongariro National Park, NZ.

Milky Way over Blue Duck Station. Owhango, NZ.

The lighter side of Mt Doom (Mt Ngauruhoe). Tongariro National Park, NZ.

Cape Foulwind walkway along the West coast of NZ's South Island.

Silhouette group photo through a cave on Fox River, NZ.

Glacial wave-like ice formation on Fox Glacier, NZ.

Hiking across Fox Glacier with a backdrop of the rain forest.

Mirror Lakes reflecting the Misty Mountains (Southern Alps) of NZ's South Island.

Waterfall inside of Milford Sound, NZ.

Taiaroa Head Lighthouse. Otago Peninsula, NZ.

Coastline along the Otago Peninsula, NZ.

Moeraki Boulder, naturally occurring spherical boulders along Koekohe Beach, NZ.

There are 10-14 sheep for every one human in New Zealand. Seen here just below Castle Hill, NZ.

Re:START Stacks. Following the earthquake, businesses reopened in shipping containers. Christchurch, NZ.

An 'angel' hangs suspended during a late night Arts Festival in downtown Christchurch, NZ.

Mud Battle. A hostel group lathers up with mud from hot geothermal pools in Rotorua, NZ.

Reflecting pool outside of The Gallery and Cafe in Helena Bay Hill. Bay of Islands, NZ.

Moureeses Bay. Bay of Islands, NZ.

Wine and appetizers were complimentary at the premiere of the Hobbit. Embassy Theater, Wellington, NZ. 

All The Universe Conspires..

“People are afraid to pursue their most important dreams, because they feel that they don't deserve them, or that they'll be unable to achieve them... But if you believe yourself worthy of the thing you fought so hard to get, then you become an instrument of God, you help the Soul of the World, and you understand why you are here.”


If you have never read The Alchemist by Paolo Coelho, please consider this my formal invitation // firm request. I will be happy to reimburse you for the cost of the book, and treat you to coffee afterwards so we can swap thoughts. The Alchemist has been read, reread, and gifted by me to many in my closest circle. What it lacks in page-turning thrills, it makes up for with spiritually uplifting perspectives. In fact, a copy made it into my bag with the intention of gifting it along the way, but the Universe* (via Julia) knew that I was better served by fresh pages on this particular journey.

“When you want something, all the Universe conspires in helping you to achieve it.”


I booked a spot on the Stray bus. We left Auckland with almost all 24 seats filled, and we groaned as our driver Karlyn (read: KAHH-lin) made us introduce ourselves and then play the Name Game. A few hours into our route, he made everyone get off the bus for our first group photo. 24 cameras in a pile.. One photo after another. After a few more hours, we arrived at an eco-lodge in the middle of the Raglan forest, and immediately took a four hour nap. We had no idea that this first day on the bus was mild compared to what was to come.

Karlyn arranged that most nights, we could all chip in and he would use that money to prepare a group dinner. Group photos, and now family dinners? I wasn't expecting this type of experience. What emerged after my (perfectly timed) nap was a bubbling pot of Shepherd's Pie, with plenty of crispy cheese lining the mashed potatoes. A fine first night.. full of food, laughter, and Rummikub.

The next morning we were off to see glowworms at the Waitomo Caves. If you've ever watched the Planet Earth episode on Caves.. this is where they filmed it. A nice group of us opted for black water rafting, and I found it interesting that members of our group were already referring to each other by name. Donning wetsuits and gumboots, we crawled and squeezed and squealed our way through the dark world. The 'rafting' was a short tubing trip through the underground river. If you talk enough smack about NZ losing the America's Cup, you will earn an extra flip underwater for it. Well worth the satisfaction.

That evening we were welcomed to a traditional Maori meeting house with full dinner spread and evening entertainment. The girls learned a hip-heavy Poi dance, and the guys learned a menacing Haka dance. I stayed up late discussing and designing a traditional tattoo with one of the tribe members. An intricate design unique to my story and my goals. I had heard conflicting reports about the cultural night, but the Universe knew I needed to stay and have my story visualized.


HOBBITON! For now I will say that The Shire exceeded my expectations and completed my childhood dreams. The hills are vast and rolling, the sheep are plenty, and the sunshine friendly. Beer tastes better at the Green Dragon pub. As I am still planning more LOTR adventures, they will receive their own post later on. Those of us that opted for Bag End did not see much of Rotorua other than a few hot springs and bubbling mud - still impressive. At this point, we picked up another Stray.. the German Terror. Nothing brings a group of people together better than the Name Game and communal distrust of another person. The Universe gave us the German Terror as a bonding tool, and we took full advantage.

Taupo was the first chance we had as a group to really let down our hair. Beautiful town on the shores of the largest lake in NZ, it had not one but two Irish bars. Half of our bus felt right at home, as we even tried to line dance at one point. Dancing continued as we got into the Element and interacted with a bit of the local flavor. Kiwi's have a way of growing on you. Let's go.

The next morning, we made a quick stop at Tawhai Falls walk for our group photo at Gollum's Waterfall! Smashing fishes on the rocks. We ventured on towards Blue Duck Station, a farm and conservation station only accessible by one narrow, hairpin road. Now read that again and picture a full-size bus with trailer attached. Upon arrival, Elaine and I were immediately glued to the farm dogs.. especially dear old Bob. I've never been happier to be covered in white hairs. Plus, I could now be sure that Elaine was Good People. A nice rainy evening in their cozy lodge led to good conversation with the volunteers, and a family dinner of rice and stew. The evening ended with Karlyn and I working on some long-exposure photos of the Milky Way. The Universe gave me a crystal clear sky on the one night I was furthest from light pollution.


The Universe also decided that I would re-injure my knee while caving underground. I was frustrated, confused. Here I am in the beautiful hiker's paradise of NZ and I'm limping? The majority of the bus got up early to hike eight hours over the famous Tongariro Crossing (active volcanoes, Mt Doom, etc.), and I sipped a coffee as they drove away. The Tongariro Crossing is no joke, and I was not surprised to see two members come back early - unable to make it past halfway. But my tweaked knee prevented me from being tempted to try.. the true blessing in disguise. Karlyn had plenty of activities to keep us distracted: photos ops across Mordor, an informational movie stop, and the more manageable two-hour Taranaki Falls Walk. Elaine and I sipped some vino in the hot tubs, no longer regretting our decision. Family dinner of curry chicken led to the creation of a joint facebook group - a place where we could all upload photos and communicate long after we parted ways. The German Terror scars poor David. The Swedish Army finally speaks. And I like em fresh.

As we drove on the next morning, I was faced with a decision. I had planned to get off the bus in Wellington and do the South Island without Stray, once I found some good people. But here I was, on Stray, and I'd found my people. As we stopped for a group photo and an actual gumboot tossing competition.. I looked around and realized how close we'd all become in less than a week. Irish, Scottish, English, Swiss, German, and even a darn Canadian. As I stepped off the bus to make a few phone calls, I returned to shouts of joy and encouragement. The tribe has spoken.. I'm staying on the bus.

Wellington provided a meeting with Gandalf and some trolls, the Te Papa museum, and a nice group dinner as we parted ways with some of our mates: Kevin, Christina, Julie, and the Young Lovers. The whole group was also super sad to see the German Terror find a different route. Wellington as a city offers so much more culture and flavor than Auckland in the north, and I can't wait to revisit it on my loop back through the country. The group made the most of their night together, enjoying an evening of live music by the Drax Project (drums + sax). Ruth and I didn't want the night to end, and we wrestled each other for fear of having to let go. Maybe. As we slept off our night on the ferry ride between the North and South islands, I thanked the Universe for Karlyn's tactics and the bond they had created.


It is hard to say which choices are 'correct'.. But if you are making a genuine and dedicated effort to achieving any goal, be it long-term or short-term, I truly believe that the people you encounter, the environments you pass through, and the mystery binding us all together will lead you to success. Success.. almost certainly defined differently than society begs you to believe, but Success.. the valuable lessons mastered along any worthy journey.

"When we strive to become better than we are, everything around us becomes better, too.”

~~~~

PVs:
1) Befriending a local, and actually staying in contact.
2) Standing in the same place Bilbo did when he shouts, "I'm going on an adventure!" If you know me, you know that I am almost always looking for the next adventure.

*The Universe: There are many different labels for the Universe. Many identify with the Christian perception of God; some refer to God, though their image is vastly different. Some consider positive energy or outward vibes. I don't particularly care what you call it, but for our purposes, I refer to the binding mystery as the Universe, since that's what Paolo Coelho uses (who is, in fact, a devout Christian).


PHOTOS
1. First group photo, outside of Raglan.
2. First family dinner: Shepherd's Pie.
3-4. Maori cultural night. Girls do Poi, boys do the Haka.
5. Hobbit hole!
6. Elaine and pups at Blue Duck Station.
7. Dear old Bob.
8. Blue Duck scenery.
9. Blue Duck sky.
10. Canadian Kevin.
11. Gumboot group photo in Taihepe.
12. Some of the gang at our gumboot tossing competition.
13. Overlooking Wellington.
14. Gandalf and I scanning for trouble.
15. Silver Fern - the national symbol.
16. The departing group, with Karlyn.
17. Ruth and myself - start of the wrestling.
18. Ruth, Kevin, and myself.
19. Our bus, Mrs. Bailey!