But What About Thanksgiving?

As we get closer to Thanksgiving, I am struck by the fact that the rest of world moves straight from Halloween to Christmas. Halloween is a time to impress friends with the most self-absorption you can muster (a few years ago I was Snooki, for example..), and Christmas is a time mainly focused on the delicate balance of giving and taking. But what about time just to sit and be grateful? To wonder aloud how there are so many blessings for which to give thanks?

If this sentiment solidifies me as 'another one of those emotional Americans', consider me Proud To Be.


After emerging from the barrage of rainy days spent fighting inner beasts, I found that Queenstown was the most hospitable of hosts. I had planned to spend four, maybe five nights total. After more than two weeks soaking up the city's essence, I felt right at home navigating the streets and strolling along her soothing wharf.

I am thankful for every soul I've met along this journey, but the Universe spoiled me rotten in Queenstown. I am particularly thankful..


For Kylie.. who taught me a better way to journal (and therefore blog), who was happy to share the childlike joys of luging and gondola rides overlooking the city, and who allowed me to open up like only an over-emotional American with late night Fergburger* can.
(I'd like to take a moment and give the Universe some credit here. It had been raining all morning - week, really - but Kylie and I decided to trek up the gondola anyway. As we arrived at the top, the sky broke and we had beautiful weather for each of our five trips down the course. As we finished our final ride, the sky started spitting out hail and I giggled at the fortune of our timing.)

For Camille [read: kuh-My-lee].. who taught me that anyone can be your Brooo!, who understood the value of a well-timed cough drop, and who quickly became a friend worthy of altered travel plans.

For Julie.. who was a wonderful date after my Strays left: dinner-for-two at the fancy Italian joint, movie date with popcorn the next night, and consistent trips to Ferg complete with unintentional stalking of boys. Yum. She also taught me that when traveling, it's okay that some items on the list can only be checked off crudely and unceremoniously (as in the case of Milford Sound - wind, rain, hail, but checked off nonetheless).

For Higgs.. who was a sweet puppy dog when I needed a virtual cuddle the most, and who forced me to produce the exact meaning of 'lolol' [laughter of legitimately open lengths]©.

For Zac.. who didn't know me, yet graciously offered a ride with his friends to the All Blacks rugby game in Dunedin (a whirlwind event, like any good gameday), who served as the best half-dead panda god that ever was, and who taught me the value of looking fresh each and every day.

For Tom.. who managed to identify General Aladeen and Michael Jackson's lovechild on the dance floor, who appreciated the simple joy of a play structure after dark, and who left me with the biggest mystery of my travels.

For Fill and Elli.. who showed me what a great friendship can look like.

For Marek.. who undeniably provided me with the most intellectually stimulating conversations I've had in years ('You ooze intelligence'), who reinforced the value of a good wander by oneself, and who taught me that even subtly snobby Californians deserve a second chance. You're a legend, too, my friend.

For Tanya.. whose appreciation of crispy bacon made us instant pals, who reinforced the importance of capturing memories within a photograph, and whose love of Fireball reminded me that I do have friends worth cherishing.

For John.. who helped me realize just how Irish I really am, and who proved we make a damn good pair of wingmen.


Even those from my past whom I've forgiven (and whose forgiveness I undoubtably require) - but refuse to forget, I found on my mind a lot during my time in Queenstown. I am thankful for memories shared and lessons learned..

M.. whose attentiveness and thoughtfulness was unprecedented, even when a lack of maturity was unavoidable.

B.. who unintentionally taught me some of the hardest lessons in foresight and fortitude, and whose level of frustration was only surpassed by the continued depth of his love.

T.. whose patience and support was never fully appreciated by a partner with growing pains.

A.. who taught me to define loyalty.

S.. who repeatedly received unspeakable treatment yet never gave up on the potential he saw buried inside the blimp.

C.. whose alliance reminds me that it's better to build friends than rekindle wars, and who never lets me wallow for long.

M.. who never allows me to apologize for who I am or how I feel, and who continually teaches me the beauty of intersecting paths.


Where would I be without these people - new and old? Where would any of us be without the blessings in our lives? While you dance to 'Santa Baby' and await the arrival of Christmas and its tangible gifts, stop for a moment to give thanks for the intangible and immeasurable blessings you already possess. And if you'd like a taste of the real Stout Christmas (I'm pretty sure Jenni's with me on this too), turn up the spirit with Amy Grant's Christmas albums from '83 and '92.


Queenstown may have been a battle for me, but I went in ready to fight and I feel that I emerged victorious. I went face to face with my own demons, we had a civil discussion, both sides were heard, and then I smashed their little skulls.

Adventure Capital of the World, eh? Let me tell you what I know about that. Sophisticated nights on yachts were followed by sloppy meals at Fergburger (repeatedly). A side trip to Milford Sound was exhausting (ten hours on a bus for a 90-minute boat ride) but worth it - if only to see the Misty Mountains, the Remarkables, and the Mirror Lakes along the way - and you better believe I bought my commemorative Spoon! Strolling through the Queenstown Gardens was a refreshing and therapeutic break from the IPA-less pubs. A whirlwind 24-hour trip to Dunedin with a car full of strangers will never be matched nor forgotten. 'How do I get back to the Octagon?' 'That way..ish.' Free drinks taste better when established businesswomen are toasting to the independence of your journey. Getting caught on film and watching it the next morning? A surprisingly nice ego-boost. While the activities and side trips were heaps of fun, it was the exploration of myself and my supporters that led to the success of my stay.

As I finally pulled away from Queenstown in my newly rented car, Sunny the Rocket (it came pre-christened with a rockstar name), I was a little apprehensive to once again venture on my own. Not because I was afraid of my own company, but I now realized how much I wanted to share this experience with another soul. You can see now why my adventure with the Guide came at precisely the right moment..

Yet another reason to give thanks.


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*Fergburger. Hailed as the most famous eatery in Queenstown and the best burger in all of NZ, it 'is quite well known internationally despite not being a chain and only having one location'. Wide selection of burgers, super fresh ingredients, huge portions. Open a whopping 21 hours a day, 7 days a week. I wouldn't go so far as to say it was the best burger I've ever had (RIP Blimpy Burger), but it's not a bad sign that I ate there four, or five.. or six times (nevermind that it was across the street from my hostel). However, my highest marks go to Ferg Bakery next door.. mouthwatering baked goods at a reasonable price.


PVs
1. Explaining to a group of finance investors what an IPA is.. They legitimately did not understand.
2. Getting out of bed after both the Wolverines and the Tigers lost.
3. Yachts, shots, and futbol despots.
4. Learning to play Flukey Ball! Thanks to Fill and Elli :)
5. Being taught the rules and strategy of rugby from a jolly gentleman who was kind enough to humor me throughout the big game. (I still think it pales in comparison to both futbol and football.)
6. Trying pâté. Texturally intimidating, but my fear has been happily overruled.
7. Driving on the left side of the road!


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Photos
1. Nico, myself, Kylie, and Knut
2. The last group night out
3. Waving goodbye to Stray
4. Kylie and myself riding up the gondola!
5-7. Overlooking Queenstown from the luge course
8. Fergburger
9. Fettuccine Carbonara dinner date
10. Ferg with Julie - a Greflie (Group Selfie!)
11. Terrible photo of Milford Sound
12. Zac, the panda god
13-14. The Dunedin gang
15-17. The All Blacks (NZ) play Australia (Oz)
18. Tom and Zac
19. Elli along the beach
20. Zac and the Jaeger Train
21. Tanya and her Fireball obsession
22. John (right), myself, and our young apprentice Aaron
23. Gettin feisty with a new top and a new 'do
24. Battle wounds (bruises on knees and feet)
25. Blogging scene
26. Shameless record of good hair day
27. Service Above Self
28. Queenstown Gardens
29. The Silver Fern is NZ's national symbol.. Ferns, ferns, ferns.. Everywhere
30. Sent to me as the newest Stray family photo.. :(
31. Sunny the Rocket!

The Guide

We pause from your regularly scheduled programming to bring you a breaking news story..

THE GUIDE


He was short and stocky, hiding in the shadows. He sat by the edge of the road, watching my car slow down as I neared him. Black, middle-aged.. visibly male. My Mom made me promise not to pick up hitchhikers, but I felt like he was going to pick me up whether I liked it or not. He said nothing as I slowly walked towards him, he simply rose and began to trot beside me. This sweet black lab was offering to guide me through his world, and I couldn't say no.


I arrived in St Bathans on a tip from Kiwi Craig. Situated right exactly in the middle of nowhere, this tiny village was once the landmark of the gold rush in NZ. After years of mining, the original hill was flattened, leaving nothing behind but a stunning mineral lake and a few authentic storefronts. The rich ultramarine waters of Blue Lake are surrounded by a unearthly landscape dotted with rusty remnants of settlers past. I anticipated a nice, leisurely 50-minute loop beside the lake. The Guide* had other plans.

I made a bee-line to the toilets and was surprised to find the Guide waiting outside when I emerged - he hadn't wandered back to the car park (parking lot) as I'd expected. He wasn't impressed when I tried to pet him on the head, though he did accept a good hip/butt rub. He wasn't a lost, sad puppy dog, and he wasn't hoping to attract one either. He was there because he wanted to travel. He'd made this trek alone many times I'm sure, but was excited at the prospect of sharing these moments all the same. We just have an affinity for wandering, and love finding someone with whom to share our adventures. Did I type we? Weird.


The Guide was loyal. He was dedicated. And he was patient. He never got too far ahead without looking back to check on me. He excitedly showed me all the best lookout spots, far beyond the official track. I followed him up the rocky dunes to find breathtaking views I would have passed by, and he waited patiently while I captured the moments on film (er, memory cards). He was fearless and feisty. At one point, he climbed gingerly down a steep bank, and I watched as he took a relaxing dip into the serene blue lake. He knew all the best spots. He appeared again from another bank looking refreshed and invigorated.

I had seen him sniffing the hundreds, maybe thousands, of rabbit holes that littered the area. He had made a lazy attempt to chase one full-size hare, but I hadn't thought much of it. After losing sight of him for a few minutes, I scanned the horizon to see the Guide on top of a tall ridge, digging excitedly into the ground. Quite a noble sight really.. Ancestral wolf shining through big time. I knew immediately that he had found live critters, and I watched curiously to see how he would handle it. Finally, one tiny bunny squealed past him, over the edge and PLOP! into the water below. Before I could process, I realized that the Guide had another one locked between his jaws, still flopping about. It didn't flop long before the Guide was gnawing off its head, crunching as he went. I thought he would pick around the fur and bones, but he soon proved me wrong by gulping down the entire rest of the creature.. those lucky rabbit feet hanging out like toothpicks. By now, I was trying to find a respectable distance from which to photograph. The man was clearly enjoying a hard earned dinner, and any dog owner knows the dangers of getting too close during meal time. As he eyed me in range, I told the Guide out loud, "I don't want to disturb you. I want to honor you."

All done, right? As I moved away down the hill, having gotten my snapshots and not wanting to overstay my welcome, I realized that something or someone was squealing behind me. Four more tiny victims came bounding down the hill, kicking and screaming but unable to do so with actual purpose. As each one finally came to a fatal halt, I (naturally) moved closer to investigate. Very curious.. each of the bunnies was clearly dead, but with no visible wounds. No blood, no bite marks. The Guide had managed to end their lives.. in the most gentle way he knew how.

As the Guide finished his affairs, I pointed my finger at the four he had left strewn about the hill. I asked him what he planned to do with them. Leave them, he seemed to say.. Leave them for someone else who will be hungry. A later traveller suggested that he was offering them to me. Regardless, he took another quick dip in the lake, literally washing his face and hands after dinner. As he trotted along in front of me, I was unable to wipe the awe, appreciation, and sheer excitement off of my face. What had I just witnessed? For a few moments, I truly wondered if I had imagined the Guide, this mystical guardian angel that appeared at my feet, and perhaps none of this had ever happened. I've now checked my camera a few times to disprove this fear.


The Guide continued to lead proudly while I followed in elated disbelief. When we came to the end of our loop, he laid back down in the same place I had met him. We shared a long gaze. I started to pet him, to show my thanks.. but then I stumbled upon a better idea. Camera still in hand (actually, I used up my memory card during the Bunnie Battle, and had to run to the car to grab a new one), I audibly asked the Guide if he wanted to keep exploring. He was hesitant, not sure what I had in mind. Could my adventure live up to the one he had shown me? Probably not.. Definitely not. But I showed him my intentions by doing a quick skip-step towards the opposite end of town. He leapt up and came bounding past me, thrilled to see that I wanted more.

We carried on for another hour or so, this time it was I who dictated the route. The beautiful ruins of the old schoolhouse stood next to the long-active cemetery, and the Guide playfully sniffed around in the long grass while I read the headstones. At one point I heard a rustling while the Guide was not right beside me. I whispered, "What was that?" and he quickly came over to investigate and protect. After a few minutes, we agreed it was most likely a bird and kept going. I swear he looked at me to make sure I was comfortable before he moved on. I didn't see another person while I was in St Bathans, but I did share my afternoon with another soul.


If you think that I am fabricating the emotional capabilities of the Guide, then you have missed the sincerity of this experience. If you have never experienced the wisdom and understanding of a canine, then you have missed out on a life-changing connection. The Guide taught me a lot of things in a short afternoon.. not because I was humanizing his behavior, but because I could analyze my own on a more basic level. I didn't want the Guide to be like me, I wanted me to be more like him.. Never being afraid to wander from the beaten path. Always taking the challenging, yet more rewarding route. Having patience while your companion finds a reason to linger. Not being afraid to go off on your own, but always remembering to include those behind you. Staying loyal.. Even when a car full of new strangers arrived at the car park, the Guide stayed by my side and didn't seek to pursue the next best thing. I have a lot to learn from this whole experience, and I hope by putting it on paper I can find greater success in those areas.

The Universe knew I would benefit from a companion on my adventure, and not just any companion. Maybe the Guide needed one too, and I was able to provide him some comfort. I hope so. It was only a short-term connection, but the Universe provided me with the most wonderful Guide for both inner and outer exploration.


I will never forget the Guide from St Bathans. Without question, the most memorable part of my trip thus far.


I CAN'T WAIT TO SHOW YOU THE GOOD PHOTOS!! Gahhhh.. I even got the end of the Bunnie Battle on video. So good. I took a few photos of my camera screen just for kicks. And yes, I took a photo of myself laughing in disbelief, cuz I really did laugh the whole way back.
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PVs
Not shoving him in the car with me as I drove away.


*The Guide. Ryan Gosling's character in Drive is never referred to by name. Even in the script, he is simply referred to as The Driver. I thought about this as I tried to 'name' the dog during our walk.. But it seemed much more fitting to allow this creature to serve selflessly as the Driver of my experience, without me selfishly wanting to label it.
- If you haven't seen Drive, I highly recommended it. Actually, Mom.. it might be a bit too gory for you. ;)

Wow look! An update with real photos!