Be A Traveler, Not A Tourist

"If you're twenty-two, physically fit, hungry to learn and be better, I urge you to travel - as far and as widely as possible. Sleep on floors if you have to. Find out how other people live and eat and cook. Learn from them, wherever you go." - Anthony Bourdain


I consider Anthony Bourdain to be one of the great voices of our generation. From his Travel Channel program No Reservations and his recent CNN upgrade with Parts Unknown, to his fascinating culinary memoirs Kitchen Confidential and Medium Raw, to his various appearances all over food related authorities, one would be wise to heed the demigod's words on any available topic. The most impactful (and easiest to remember) is his mantra to "be a traveler, not a tourist."

There are two parts to pulling this off. First, you have to dispel the temptation to be a tourist. Don't follow the beaten path the whole time. Don't take a photo of every sheep you see (there are approximately 10 sheep for every 1 human in NZ). Don't fixate on creature comforts, whether it be an expensive hotel or a trip to McDonalds. Don't worry about what you look or smell or sound like, other than to maintain some level of respect for those around you. For instance, bring wet wipes if you can't shower frequently, or if your hostel's showers create more filth than they remove..

After you've deconditioned yourself from acting like a tourist, it's time to look at the world from the perspective of a traveler. You're here to see new things, taste new foods, learn new cultural traditions! Find the hidden creek or the less-famous hiking path. Talk to locals and other travelers - I have found that firsthand accounts are more trustworthy than just about any guidebook. Ask questions. Trust strangers. Everyone has the potential to be a creep, but then you can't run around being scared all day, can you. Be wise, but open. Be flexible. Just because it's called English doesn't mean they speak the same language. Adopt new lingo - including measurements (curse you, imperial system)! If you can learn to be more of a traveler than a tourist, then sweet as, cuz! You'll eliminate the rubbish no one's keen on hearing, and I reckon you'll have heaps more craics along the way.

"..That without experimentation, a willingness to ask questions, and try new things, we shall surely become static, repetitive, moribund." - Anthony Bourdain


Admittedly, I spent the first month on the tourist track. Stray bus took us to all the main stops, a few lesser known extras, and Karlyn provided us with the few true traveler opportunities. After running around on my own unaided, it was time to see NZ from a local perspective. I arrived back in Christchurch while the Lion's Den Men were busy with school and work. A fantastic excuse to explore the city, camera in hand.

It's taken me a while to be comfortable with a camera in my hand. Despite actually having studied photography (admittedly not extensively, but much more than 98% of today's self-proclaimed photograpers), I have somehow managed to guilt trip myself every time I bring my camera out in public. I'm making a lot of progress, and I'm grateful that this trip has forced me to overcome the unfortunate guilt and fear. Mostly I've just stopped caring what anyone on the street thinks of me, but I've also come to recognize that taking photos - thoughtful, meaningful photos - is a way of honoring each place you visit.

I feel closer to the heart of Christchurch, after sharing intimate moments with nothing but a lens between us. Portrait photography is a personal and unmistakably invasive process. You want the subject to relax, to trust, to be comfortable.. so you can then capture and exploit their raw human emotion. And just because a city doesn't have a face doesn't mean that it doesn't move and grow and reproduce. It has soft sides and dark sides and a history littered with scars. I'm just as grateful and honored to capture her beauty as I would be a human soul - perhaps more, considering that she is a collective of the countless souls she has housed and inspired.

I specifically enjoyed spending time and money in Christchurch - the honest reason I was so intent on coming here. If I've come to this country to spend dollars and collect memories, what better place than somewhere to whom those resources can be most helpful? After the earthquake in 2011, I have been magnetically drawn. My first life-changing experience with the marriage of independence, wanderlust, and service took place in New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina, and it has left a permanent mark on me in more ways than one. Christchurch was ready for me, and on my one day in town they surprised me with a full Arts Festival that ran until midnight. Vendors made up a "Lost and Found" market, street performers entertained with flames and straight jackets, and finally, massive friar puppets controlled by 4-5 people each haunted the streets after dark. An eerie tribute to a city named Christ-church with its cathedral in ruins.

"Travel changes you. As you move through this life and this world you change things slightly, you leave marks behind, however small. And in return, life - and travel - leaves marks on you. Most of the time, those marks - on your body or on your heart - are beautiful. Often, though, they hurt." - Anthony Bourdain


Utterly pleased by my fortunate travel timing, I made my way back to see Marek and Alex. After taking them back downtown to see the tail-end of the fest, we ended the night with pizza box calligraphy and Louis CK brilliance. Almost missed my flight the next morning on account of seeing a ghost.. Kinda wish I had.


From Christchurch, I stopped in Taupo en route to Rotorua. I had lined up a Work For Accommodation situation in Rotorua - I would be cleaning toilets in exchange for a free bed each night. (Please don't tell my boss back home that I'm skilled in cleaning now..) Before my commitment, I had a few days to see Taupo through the eyes and windows of a local. Higgs was gracious enough to offer me his home and his city, while I spent my days sick in bed with the cats. Animals always have a way of popping up when I need them most. Everything helps except those pesky puppy dogs. I wanted to maintain respect, but too many red flags left me eager to board the next bus. I had left a piece of myself in Christchurch, and I knew I needed to go back after Rotorua and claim it.


What's that saying about the necessity of cracking a few eggs if you want to make an omelet?

"The way you make an omelet reveals your character." - Anthony Bourdain

It takes a few missteps, a few broken hearts, and more than a few scars to travel along your path. But if you're willing to get dirty then I think you're better able to own that dirt. To own your mistakes. To celebrate your triumphs. To be proud of where you've gotten. More than learning to be a traveler overseas, I think we must fight the temptation of remaining a tourist in our own lives. So you struggle with something personally? Educate yourself, come up with some strategies. So you want to see if he's the real deal? Go find out. So someone in your life deserves an apology? Deny your pride. Be a key player on your own path - be an active traveler, not a tourist being helplessly dragged along.


And go read some Anthony Bourdain.. "What nicer thing can you do for somebody than make them breakfast?"


P.S. Christchurch photos will have their own post eventually.

Woodfire stove in the Re:START section of Christchurch.

The eye of Sauron is always watching.

Animals when I need them most.

Catching up on Breaking Bad!

One of many encouraged, even commissioned, works of graffiti. 

All The Universe Conspires..

“People are afraid to pursue their most important dreams, because they feel that they don't deserve them, or that they'll be unable to achieve them... But if you believe yourself worthy of the thing you fought so hard to get, then you become an instrument of God, you help the Soul of the World, and you understand why you are here.”


If you have never read The Alchemist by Paolo Coelho, please consider this my formal invitation // firm request. I will be happy to reimburse you for the cost of the book, and treat you to coffee afterwards so we can swap thoughts. The Alchemist has been read, reread, and gifted by me to many in my closest circle. What it lacks in page-turning thrills, it makes up for with spiritually uplifting perspectives. In fact, a copy made it into my bag with the intention of gifting it along the way, but the Universe* (via Julia) knew that I was better served by fresh pages on this particular journey.

“When you want something, all the Universe conspires in helping you to achieve it.”


I booked a spot on the Stray bus. We left Auckland with almost all 24 seats filled, and we groaned as our driver Karlyn (read: KAHH-lin) made us introduce ourselves and then play the Name Game. A few hours into our route, he made everyone get off the bus for our first group photo. 24 cameras in a pile.. One photo after another. After a few more hours, we arrived at an eco-lodge in the middle of the Raglan forest, and immediately took a four hour nap. We had no idea that this first day on the bus was mild compared to what was to come.

Karlyn arranged that most nights, we could all chip in and he would use that money to prepare a group dinner. Group photos, and now family dinners? I wasn't expecting this type of experience. What emerged after my (perfectly timed) nap was a bubbling pot of Shepherd's Pie, with plenty of crispy cheese lining the mashed potatoes. A fine first night.. full of food, laughter, and Rummikub.

The next morning we were off to see glowworms at the Waitomo Caves. If you've ever watched the Planet Earth episode on Caves.. this is where they filmed it. A nice group of us opted for black water rafting, and I found it interesting that members of our group were already referring to each other by name. Donning wetsuits and gumboots, we crawled and squeezed and squealed our way through the dark world. The 'rafting' was a short tubing trip through the underground river. If you talk enough smack about NZ losing the America's Cup, you will earn an extra flip underwater for it. Well worth the satisfaction.

That evening we were welcomed to a traditional Maori meeting house with full dinner spread and evening entertainment. The girls learned a hip-heavy Poi dance, and the guys learned a menacing Haka dance. I stayed up late discussing and designing a traditional tattoo with one of the tribe members. An intricate design unique to my story and my goals. I had heard conflicting reports about the cultural night, but the Universe knew I needed to stay and have my story visualized.


HOBBITON! For now I will say that The Shire exceeded my expectations and completed my childhood dreams. The hills are vast and rolling, the sheep are plenty, and the sunshine friendly. Beer tastes better at the Green Dragon pub. As I am still planning more LOTR adventures, they will receive their own post later on. Those of us that opted for Bag End did not see much of Rotorua other than a few hot springs and bubbling mud - still impressive. At this point, we picked up another Stray.. the German Terror. Nothing brings a group of people together better than the Name Game and communal distrust of another person. The Universe gave us the German Terror as a bonding tool, and we took full advantage.

Taupo was the first chance we had as a group to really let down our hair. Beautiful town on the shores of the largest lake in NZ, it had not one but two Irish bars. Half of our bus felt right at home, as we even tried to line dance at one point. Dancing continued as we got into the Element and interacted with a bit of the local flavor. Kiwi's have a way of growing on you. Let's go.

The next morning, we made a quick stop at Tawhai Falls walk for our group photo at Gollum's Waterfall! Smashing fishes on the rocks. We ventured on towards Blue Duck Station, a farm and conservation station only accessible by one narrow, hairpin road. Now read that again and picture a full-size bus with trailer attached. Upon arrival, Elaine and I were immediately glued to the farm dogs.. especially dear old Bob. I've never been happier to be covered in white hairs. Plus, I could now be sure that Elaine was Good People. A nice rainy evening in their cozy lodge led to good conversation with the volunteers, and a family dinner of rice and stew. The evening ended with Karlyn and I working on some long-exposure photos of the Milky Way. The Universe gave me a crystal clear sky on the one night I was furthest from light pollution.


The Universe also decided that I would re-injure my knee while caving underground. I was frustrated, confused. Here I am in the beautiful hiker's paradise of NZ and I'm limping? The majority of the bus got up early to hike eight hours over the famous Tongariro Crossing (active volcanoes, Mt Doom, etc.), and I sipped a coffee as they drove away. The Tongariro Crossing is no joke, and I was not surprised to see two members come back early - unable to make it past halfway. But my tweaked knee prevented me from being tempted to try.. the true blessing in disguise. Karlyn had plenty of activities to keep us distracted: photos ops across Mordor, an informational movie stop, and the more manageable two-hour Taranaki Falls Walk. Elaine and I sipped some vino in the hot tubs, no longer regretting our decision. Family dinner of curry chicken led to the creation of a joint facebook group - a place where we could all upload photos and communicate long after we parted ways. The German Terror scars poor David. The Swedish Army finally speaks. And I like em fresh.

As we drove on the next morning, I was faced with a decision. I had planned to get off the bus in Wellington and do the South Island without Stray, once I found some good people. But here I was, on Stray, and I'd found my people. As we stopped for a group photo and an actual gumboot tossing competition.. I looked around and realized how close we'd all become in less than a week. Irish, Scottish, English, Swiss, German, and even a darn Canadian. As I stepped off the bus to make a few phone calls, I returned to shouts of joy and encouragement. The tribe has spoken.. I'm staying on the bus.

Wellington provided a meeting with Gandalf and some trolls, the Te Papa museum, and a nice group dinner as we parted ways with some of our mates: Kevin, Christina, Julie, and the Young Lovers. The whole group was also super sad to see the German Terror find a different route. Wellington as a city offers so much more culture and flavor than Auckland in the north, and I can't wait to revisit it on my loop back through the country. The group made the most of their night together, enjoying an evening of live music by the Drax Project (drums + sax). Ruth and I didn't want the night to end, and we wrestled each other for fear of having to let go. Maybe. As we slept off our night on the ferry ride between the North and South islands, I thanked the Universe for Karlyn's tactics and the bond they had created.


It is hard to say which choices are 'correct'.. But if you are making a genuine and dedicated effort to achieving any goal, be it long-term or short-term, I truly believe that the people you encounter, the environments you pass through, and the mystery binding us all together will lead you to success. Success.. almost certainly defined differently than society begs you to believe, but Success.. the valuable lessons mastered along any worthy journey.

"When we strive to become better than we are, everything around us becomes better, too.”

~~~~

PVs:
1) Befriending a local, and actually staying in contact.
2) Standing in the same place Bilbo did when he shouts, "I'm going on an adventure!" If you know me, you know that I am almost always looking for the next adventure.

*The Universe: There are many different labels for the Universe. Many identify with the Christian perception of God; some refer to God, though their image is vastly different. Some consider positive energy or outward vibes. I don't particularly care what you call it, but for our purposes, I refer to the binding mystery as the Universe, since that's what Paolo Coelho uses (who is, in fact, a devout Christian).


PHOTOS
1. First group photo, outside of Raglan.
2. First family dinner: Shepherd's Pie.
3-4. Maori cultural night. Girls do Poi, boys do the Haka.
5. Hobbit hole!
6. Elaine and pups at Blue Duck Station.
7. Dear old Bob.
8. Blue Duck scenery.
9. Blue Duck sky.
10. Canadian Kevin.
11. Gumboot group photo in Taihepe.
12. Some of the gang at our gumboot tossing competition.
13. Overlooking Wellington.
14. Gandalf and I scanning for trouble.
15. Silver Fern - the national symbol.
16. The departing group, with Karlyn.
17. Ruth and myself - start of the wrestling.
18. Ruth, Kevin, and myself.
19. Our bus, Mrs. Bailey!