Showing posts with label Castle Hill. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Castle Hill. Show all posts

Monday, January 13, 2014

The Road Goes Ever On and On..

This article was originally published in the Washtenaw Voice, the newest extension of my Graphic Design/Photography studies. It was not an easy feat trying to condense my trip into 1100 words (as I'm sure you can guess by my typically-wordy entries), but it was a rewarding challenge to embrace. It also featured a sneak peak of images, of which you readers will see much more in the coming weeks! I hope you enjoy.




I've followed countless times as Bilbo runs impulsively from his door at Bag End – past the pigs, through the vegetable garden, and over the weathered fence, gaining momentum as he races along the footpaths of Hobbiton. His eager anticipation is palpable, as the first steps of his journey unfold. When asked where he is off to in such a hurry, Bilbo shouts the essential mantra for every soul propelled by wanderlust: “I’m going on an adventure!”

Without a doubt, this adventure is real. I can tell you I've stood at the gate of Bag End and gazed upon the rolling hills of Hobbiton. I've lain in the grass where Bilbo’s 111th birthday party was held. And when I couldn't take any more photos of the iconic landscape from my childhood musings, I was presented with a complimentary beer at the Green Dragon Inn.

Arriving in Middle Earth marked the realization of a goal I had set for myself many moons ago. The goal was simple: Travel to New Zealand within the next five years. I arrived with three months to spare in the fifth year – and no shortage of spirit.



“There is nothing like looking, if you want to find something… but it is not always quite the something you were after.”


Unlike my own journey, Bilbo’s was indeed quite unexpected. I am sure many of us can identify with the reluctance Bilbo felt before leaving the comforts of his own home in search of adventure.

But without challenging opportunities, how are we expected to test our resolve? Bilbo did not find the Ring in a pretty field with flowers, and we also must embrace uncomfortable, sometimes dark, situations if we hope to uncover treasures of great worth.

With Hobbiton checked off my must-do list, I joined an adventure bus that gave riders the chance to experience New Zealand as a dynamic and cohesive tour. I had embarked on this trip alone, and was concerned that the personalities in the group might interfere with my wanderings and wonderings.

What surprised me was how quickly this mixed bag of international travelers was able to foster a meaningful atmosphere – group dinners, family photos, cakes and cards celebrating the birthdays of recent-strangers.



“There are no safe paths in this part of the world. Remember you are over the Edge of the Wild now, and in for all sorts of fun wherever you go.”


It didn’t take long for me to get attached to my new companions. They pushed me to explore adventures that even my typically open mind had written off. On the eve of one particular day-trip, my roommate took it upon herself to convince me I should join.

Her efforts resulted in one of the best highlights from my trip: driving through a lush rainforest to go hiking on a frozen glacier. “It’s just ice,” I had told myself, but the vast, constantly moving landscape presented a staggering purity that I’ll never forget. To be such a minute visitor in a wild arena capable of such natural force was awesome in the truest form.

Above-ground hiking was not our only wild encounter. Donning wetsuits and rubber boots, we spent an afternoon crawling and squeezing our way through the glowworm caves of Planet Earth fame. I’m not sure what I expected, but I found myself encased in a few tight spaces desperately fighting off claustrophobic paranoia.

You can do it. Don’t be a wimp. If he can fit through, so can you. None of the typical mantras brought any relief; my only motivation was the understanding that forward motion was the only thing keeping me alive.

When I look back, I realize that my moments of confinement account for less than 10 percent of the afternoon, which helps me to recall the canopy of luminescence and the bellows of group laughter more clearly.

I also consider the fact that Bilbo, while equipped with the Ring, did not have any glowworms or friends to help him find his way out. (I’d like to note that there are multiple ways to experience the infamous glowworms that do not require any amount of hiking or squealing. Please do not be dissuaded.)

It was encounters like these that allowed me to trust more fully – both in my own capabilities and in my communion with others. But as much as I had come to appreciate the benefits of my close-knit group, I resolved to cut ties with what was familiar and easy and comfortable, and once again venture out on my own.



“If more of us valued food and cheer and song above hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world.”


I spent a few weeks dating myself. Romantic dinners were enjoyed pouring over a new book, while generous glasses of wine continued to pour nearby. Lazy days were spent entirely in bed.

Photo walks through the numerous gardens were followed by late-night strolls along the harbor. Intimate moments were shared with complete strangers, as I remained open to the intelligence and stimulation within.

Make it a point to find and enjoy local delights – there are plenty of adventures hidden within daily endeavors if you are just willing to dig a little.

Maybe you’ll jump in a car with five strangers to see a live rugby match, but I can guarantee you won’t come home strangers. Maybe you’ll book a flight to see that seven-piece funky-soul-reggae band and discover a native ghost along the way.

Perhaps you can splurge and attend a red carpet premiere of the latest Hobbit film. But what do I know? I’m just some girl who stuffed her life in a backpack and boarded a plane.

Just as Bilbo took a leap of faith in leaving the comforts of Bag End, I encourage everyone to rebuke the complacency that comes with material possessions, and take the first steps of your own adventure.

You may find that a lack of tangible distractions allows a clearer sense of identity and confidence to shine through, whether you share it with companions or treasure it internally. An adventure can be in the next neighborhood or the next country, just as long as it removes you from your comfort zone.


Through the soaring highs and the heavy lows, I have found more fulfillment and satisfaction in three months of wandering than in years spent on my own couch. Because when it comes down to it, each of us is “just a little fellow, in a wide world after all.”

The road goes ever on.. The start of the tramping trail. Waiheke Island, NZ.
Tramping trail on the coast of Waiheke Island, NZ.

An inviting Hobbit hole in Hobbiton. Matamata, NZ.

The Party Tree of Bilbo's infamous 111th birthday party, with view of the Green Dragon Inn. Matamata, NZ.

Down from the door where it began.. Bag End and its gate. Matamata, NZ.

Group photo with Stray family, in front of Gollum's Waterfall. Tongariro National Park, NZ.

Milky Way over Blue Duck Station. Owhango, NZ.

The lighter side of Mt Doom (Mt Ngauruhoe). Tongariro National Park, NZ.

Cape Foulwind walkway along the West coast of NZ's South Island.

Silhouette group photo through a cave on Fox River, NZ.

Glacial wave-like ice formation on Fox Glacier, NZ.

Hiking across Fox Glacier with a backdrop of the rain forest.

Mirror Lakes reflecting the Misty Mountains (Southern Alps) of NZ's South Island.

Waterfall inside of Milford Sound, NZ.

Taiaroa Head Lighthouse. Otago Peninsula, NZ.

Coastline along the Otago Peninsula, NZ.

Moeraki Boulder, naturally occurring spherical boulders along Koekohe Beach, NZ.

There are 10-14 sheep for every one human in New Zealand. Seen here just below Castle Hill, NZ.

Re:START Stacks. Following the earthquake, businesses reopened in shipping containers. Christchurch, NZ.

An 'angel' hangs suspended during a late night Arts Festival in downtown Christchurch, NZ.

Mud Battle. A hostel group lathers up with mud from hot geothermal pools in Rotorua, NZ.

Reflecting pool outside of The Gallery and Cafe in Helena Bay Hill. Bay of Islands, NZ.

Moureeses Bay. Bay of Islands, NZ.

Wine and appetizers were complimentary at the premiere of the Hobbit. Embassy Theater, Wellington, NZ. 

Friday, December 6, 2013

Buy The Ticket, Take The Ride..

"Buy the ticket, take the ride.. And if it occasionally gets a little heavier than what you had in mind, well.. Maybe chalk it off to forced conscious expansion"
- Hunter S Thompson



Sunny the Rocket and I left Queenstown, stopped in St Bathans, and drove through to Dunedin. I had been there the previous weekend, but hadn't had ample time to soak up the city. With our van of three people, sleeping in a neighborhood had been no problem. But when a solo girl tries to do it in the pouring rain, people start knocking earlyyy to make sure you're okay.

I'm fine, thanks, apart from being awake now. Kiwis: too friendly for their own good? I suppose it's all a part of the ride.

Their concern did allow force me to get an early start on the day, and I was able to navigate the entire Otago Peninsula before 2 pm. A stunning drive.. you get to Pilot Beach at the end and realize just how isolated NZ is from the rest of the world. Killer coastlines and creatures - swarms of albatross, puddles of seals, and whispers of penguins - dropped in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. A humbling realization of how small we are.

Back in Dunedin, I walked around the city for nearly five hours just to make sure I had seen and captured it all. The previous weekend, I had opened a bottle just before heading to the rugby game. Realizing I couldn't take it in and I didn't want to scull (chug) anything, I re-capped it and hid it in some bushes. Days later, my beer was still there and tasted just as sweet. Win! That night I enjoyed my brew in a real bed at a Backpackers downtown.


Driving north, I stopped at Moeraki Boulders to see the oddity of spherical rocks strewn about the beach. Dozens of these perfectly round boulders dotted the area. I'm still not convinced whether they are natural or manmade. I took plenty of freakin pictures, tell me what you think?

I ended the day with a familiar face.. Queenstown friend Marek had offered a place to crash with he and his roommates in Christchurch: the "Lion's Den", as it was dubbed. It was nice to be in a real dwelling.. No hostel, no lodge, no car seat. A real apartment with friends and passions and inside jokes. And academics! Sometimes I forget how stimulating the conversations within academia can be. I've downplayed that aspect of my life for many years, but discussions and debates I shared in the Lion's Den have encouraged me to refocus my priorities when I get back home. Funny how 'vacation' can motivate you to work even harder. Stefan Sagmeister explains the concept well in his TED Talk The Power of Time Off.

After an evening right at home as one of the guys, Marek made a delicious breakfast of properly cooked bacon (he is from Canada and totally gets it) to send me on my way. I was looking forward to my drive through Arthur's Pass - the famed mountain road between the East and West coasts of the south island. It was hailing and raining and it was magnificent. Beautiful, eerie bridges with immense amounts of water cascading powerfully over the top. Winding roads allowed me to find out just how Sunny liked to ride. As I would be driving back across the same way, I figured I would save any extra hikes for better weather the following day. A welcome tasting tray at Monteith's Brewery proved to be the only worthwhile reason to visit Greymouth on the West Coast. I ended at a very cute and eclectic Global Backpackers to escape the downpour for the night.


Back across Arthur's Pass. When stopping to get gas (in NZ you never pay for gas until after you've filled up. This honor system would never fly in sketchy, greedy America..) I noticed weather signs that called for snow. As I drove towards the pass, multiple signs told me not to carry on without snow chains for my tires. Warning! Snow! Carry Chains!

First thought? Honey, I'm from Michigan.. I can handle the snow. Second thought? This is a rental car! I don't have chains! How am I supposed to cross without getting stranded in the mountains? Final thought? Shrug. I'm going anyway.

And it was fine. It was snowing and hailing, yes. But it was mid-morning, which meant no accumulation yet, and some warmth had arrived to prevent slippery pavement. It was, however, much too windy for those extra hikes I'd saved.. Guess I'll just have to come back to NZ. Bummer.

Stopped about halfway through for coffee, and as soon as I said hello and was prepared to ask for "a Long Black for Takeaway", the lady immediately asked if I wanted proper drip coffee. Whaat?! Classic, North American drip coffee does not exist in NZ. You can get a Short Black (one shot espresso), a Long Black (two shots espresso with hot water, and my personal fave), or a Flat White (which includes milk, so I've never tested it). Apparently the nice lady's daughter lives in NY and she recognized that someone with my accent might appreciate a taste of home. To be fair, I have grown so accustomed to the bitter espresso that the drip coffee was completely underwhelming. The thought counted for a lot though, and my gratitude added extra flavor to the cup.


There are these funny little mischievous birds called Kea. They are the world's only alpine parrot, mostly olive green with hints of bright orange underneath, and have been dubbed "the clown of the mountains". Marek's roommate Alex had warned me about them.. that they were becoming a bit of a nuisance, but as a protected species there is nothing you can really do. Sure enough, I braved the snow for a moment to snap some photos and suddenly I had a tail. This inquisitive Kea hopped right on top of my car! He poked his head down over the window to check me out, and I assumed he was looking for a way into the vehicle. Scared shitless turned into totally fascinated, as I realized he was intelligent and bored, so he and I played a quick game of hide and seek before I carried on. Cheeky little fellow.

After clearing the main pass, I explored the Castle Hill area that features large limestone boulders used by early Maori as shelters during their migratory days. Can you imagine that ride? People get so excited and worried about travel these days, but what a joke it is compared to real traversing. Life-threatening, eye-opening, culture-forming travel. New Zealand was one of the last places on earth to be inhabited in 1250 AD and it shows in the best and worst ways possible. There are very obviously still hundreds of square miles that no human foot has touched. The terrain too uneven, the bush too thick, the weather too unpredictable. Untouched beauty. God's virgin earth. So little of it remains on our globe, it is worth celebrating. The cons of being so far down the colonization line is that your internet sucks and you are essentially a combination of everyone else's cultures. But the good outweighs the bad. You learn more by being in a place like this than you would in a big, nondescript city. Which might be why I appreciate broken Christchurch and zany Wellington more than anonymous Auckland..


If you're looking to learn, don't fluff the pillows and click the remote. Buy a ticket. Get on the plane. Find the bus. Go exploring! Back in Abel Tasman, our Stray skydivers got phrases written in thick black marker on their forearms, to display during freefall. Much to my mother's disappointment, I wasn't able to jump out of a plane this trip. But if I had, I know what I would have written..

BUY THE TICKET - TAKE THE RIDE.


Otago Peninsula

Otago Peninsula


Otago Beauty


Dunedin, for my mother.


Dunedin, for Ingrid, my typography mentor.


Moeraki Boulders


Moeraki Boulders

Moeraki


Monteith's Tasting Tray

The lineup. I substituted an IPA for that shitty Radler shandy. 


Balsamic treat.


Castle Hill. Early Maori shelters.


Kea on my sideview!


Kea flying away. Beautiful.