The Road Goes Ever On and On..

This article was originally published in the Washtenaw Voice, the newest extension of my Graphic Design/Photography studies. It was not an easy feat trying to condense my trip into 1100 words (as I'm sure you can guess by my typically-wordy entries), but it was a rewarding challenge to embrace. It also featured a sneak peak of images, of which you readers will see much more in the coming weeks! I hope you enjoy.

I've followed countless times as Bilbo runs impulsively from his door at Bag End – past the pigs, through the vegetable garden, and over the weathered fence, gaining momentum as he races along the footpaths of Hobbiton. His eager anticipation is palpable, as the first steps of his journey unfold. When asked where he is off to in such a hurry, Bilbo shouts the essential mantra for every soul propelled by wanderlust: “I’m going on an adventure!”

Without a doubt, this adventure is real. I can tell you I've stood at the gate of Bag End and gazed upon the rolling hills of Hobbiton. I've lain in the grass where Bilbo’s 111th birthday party was held. And when I couldn't take any more photos of the iconic landscape from my childhood musings, I was presented with a complimentary beer at the Green Dragon Inn.

Arriving in Middle Earth marked the realization of a goal I had set for myself many moons ago. The goal was simple: Travel to New Zealand within the next five years. I arrived with three months to spare in the fifth year – and no shortage of spirit.

“There is nothing like looking, if you want to find something… but it is not always quite the something you were after.”

Unlike my own journey, Bilbo’s was indeed quite unexpected. I am sure many of us can identify with the reluctance Bilbo felt before leaving the comforts of his own home in search of adventure.

But without challenging opportunities, how are we expected to test our resolve? Bilbo did not find the Ring in a pretty field with flowers, and we also must embrace uncomfortable, sometimes dark, situations if we hope to uncover treasures of great worth.

With Hobbiton checked off my must-do list, I joined an adventure bus that gave riders the chance to experience New Zealand as a dynamic and cohesive tour. I had embarked on this trip alone, and was concerned that the personalities in the group might interfere with my wanderings and wonderings.

What surprised me was how quickly this mixed bag of international travelers was able to foster a meaningful atmosphere – group dinners, family photos, cakes and cards celebrating the birthdays of recent-strangers.

“There are no safe paths in this part of the world. Remember you are over the Edge of the Wild now, and in for all sorts of fun wherever you go.”

It didn’t take long for me to get attached to my new companions. They pushed me to explore adventures that even my typically open mind had written off. On the eve of one particular day-trip, my roommate took it upon herself to convince me I should join.

Her efforts resulted in one of the best highlights from my trip: driving through a lush rainforest to go hiking on a frozen glacier. “It’s just ice,” I had told myself, but the vast, constantly moving landscape presented a staggering purity that I’ll never forget. To be such a minute visitor in a wild arena capable of such natural force was awesome in the truest form.

Above-ground hiking was not our only wild encounter. Donning wetsuits and rubber boots, we spent an afternoon crawling and squeezing our way through the glowworm caves of Planet Earth fame. I’m not sure what I expected, but I found myself encased in a few tight spaces desperately fighting off claustrophobic paranoia.

You can do it. Don’t be a wimp. If he can fit through, so can you. None of the typical mantras brought any relief; my only motivation was the understanding that forward motion was the only thing keeping me alive.

When I look back, I realize that my moments of confinement account for less than 10 percent of the afternoon, which helps me to recall the canopy of luminescence and the bellows of group laughter more clearly.

I also consider the fact that Bilbo, while equipped with the Ring, did not have any glowworms or friends to help him find his way out. (I’d like to note that there are multiple ways to experience the infamous glowworms that do not require any amount of hiking or squealing. Please do not be dissuaded.)

It was encounters like these that allowed me to trust more fully – both in my own capabilities and in my communion with others. But as much as I had come to appreciate the benefits of my close-knit group, I resolved to cut ties with what was familiar and easy and comfortable, and once again venture out on my own.

“If more of us valued food and cheer and song above hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world.”

I spent a few weeks dating myself. Romantic dinners were enjoyed pouring over a new book, while generous glasses of wine continued to pour nearby. Lazy days were spent entirely in bed.

Photo walks through the numerous gardens were followed by late-night strolls along the harbor. Intimate moments were shared with complete strangers, as I remained open to the intelligence and stimulation within.

Make it a point to find and enjoy local delights – there are plenty of adventures hidden within daily endeavors if you are just willing to dig a little.

Maybe you’ll jump in a car with five strangers to see a live rugby match, but I can guarantee you won’t come home strangers. Maybe you’ll book a flight to see that seven-piece funky-soul-reggae band and discover a native ghost along the way.

Perhaps you can splurge and attend a red carpet premiere of the latest Hobbit film. But what do I know? I’m just some girl who stuffed her life in a backpack and boarded a plane.

Just as Bilbo took a leap of faith in leaving the comforts of Bag End, I encourage everyone to rebuke the complacency that comes with material possessions, and take the first steps of your own adventure.

You may find that a lack of tangible distractions allows a clearer sense of identity and confidence to shine through, whether you share it with companions or treasure it internally. An adventure can be in the next neighborhood or the next country, just as long as it removes you from your comfort zone.

Through the soaring highs and the heavy lows, I have found more fulfillment and satisfaction in three months of wandering than in years spent on my own couch. Because when it comes down to it, each of us is “just a little fellow, in a wide world after all.”

The road goes ever on.. The start of the tramping trail. Waiheke Island, NZ.

Tramping trail on the coast of Waiheke Island, NZ.

An inviting Hobbit hole in Hobbiton. Matamata, NZ.

The Party Tree of Bilbo's infamous 111th birthday party, with view of the Green Dragon Inn. Matamata, NZ.

Down from the door where it began.. Bag End and its gate. Matamata, NZ.

Group photo with Stray family, in front of Gollum's Waterfall. Tongariro National Park, NZ.

Milky Way over Blue Duck Station. Owhango, NZ.

The lighter side of Mt Doom (Mt Ngauruhoe). Tongariro National Park, NZ.

Cape Foulwind walkway along the West coast of NZ's South Island.

Silhouette group photo through a cave on Fox River, NZ.

Glacial wave-like ice formation on Fox Glacier, NZ.

Hiking across Fox Glacier with a backdrop of the rain forest.

Mirror Lakes reflecting the Misty Mountains (Southern Alps) of NZ's South Island.

Waterfall inside of Milford Sound, NZ.

Taiaroa Head Lighthouse. Otago Peninsula, NZ.

Coastline along the Otago Peninsula, NZ.

Moeraki Boulder, naturally occurring spherical boulders along Koekohe Beach, NZ.

There are 10-14 sheep for every one human in New Zealand. Seen here just below Castle Hill, NZ.

Re:START Stacks. Following the earthquake, businesses reopened in shipping containers. Christchurch, NZ.

An 'angel' hangs suspended during a late night Arts Festival in downtown Christchurch, NZ.

Mud Battle. A hostel group lathers up with mud from hot geothermal pools in Rotorua, NZ.

Reflecting pool outside of The Gallery and Cafe in Helena Bay Hill. Bay of Islands, NZ.

Moureeses Bay. Bay of Islands, NZ.

Wine and appetizers were complimentary at the premiere of the Hobbit. Embassy Theater, Wellington, NZ. 

Embracing Beautiful Instability

Landed in NZ. On the ride from the airport into town, our bus broke down on the side of the highway. There were some 20 of us huddled on the shoulder enjoying the breeze, but having trouble keeping the cigarettes lit. The whole snafu put an instant smile on my face, as I remembered one of the key phrases for my trip: "embracing beautiful instability."


Checked into Room *** at my hostel in Auckland. (The first rule about ***, is you don't talk about ***...) A fortuitous assignment. On my first night, I hung out with the American girl who had been my server a few hours earlier. We trekked our way through the pouring rain to experience an authentic kiwi evening with some of her friends from uni (-versity). As much as I'm not here to meet Americans, Alana was a nice exception. More on the subject of Americans later.

On my first full day in Auckland, I joined roommates Jenni and Andy for some pick-up futbol in the park! Beautiful sunny day. Probably 22-24 C, so 75-80 F. While my bum knee kept me from participating, it felt great to be surrounded by such a known and adored sport. That evening, I set off on a solo mini-adventure. Hoping to hike to the top of Mt Eden that overlooks the whole city, I was warned to take the bus to the base instead of walking. Great, purchased a ticket, got on the bus, and got off at the Mt Eden Rd stop. What I failed to realize was that I had chosen the first of many stops on Mt Eden Rd. Soooo I had to walk the extra miles anyway, which threw off my timing of arriving at the summit in time for sunset. Oh well haha... Nothing to do but chuckle and appreciate the extra exercise. Early to bed that night.


My routine in Auckland consisted mostly of a morning stroll by myself as I hunted down small cafes and got familiar with the city center (and adjoining harbor). What a delightful time of day to spend with oneself. If I didn't get a good walk in the morning, I'd try to schedule a mid-day adventure. Late-afternoon/evening was reserved for naps, which left me plenty of energy for nightly romps.

I had a look at the weather to determine which day would be best for a trip to nearby Waiheke Island for some walking and some wine. Where to begin? The whole island was pitched as having countless walking paths and wine tours. I poured over a few maps and determined a general plan of action. What I thought would be a leisurely day turned out to be a substantial first experience with true NZ landscape. With the good fortune of a few wrong turns, I found myself tramping along the coastline.. a coastline streaked with tiny trails from past hooves and personal triumphs. Outrageously stunning views welcome you around every turn. Sparkling creeks run beside you, sharing the journey and chattering as you go. Birds of (seemingly) every nationality sing you the songs of their homelands. Dark, dense rock formations and smooth, reaching palm fronds.. radiantly turquoise waters lapping against beaches of various colors, shapes, and sizes. My sandals slipping often but my spirit holding strong.

For three and a half hours, I trudged along the winding, introspective trails, stopping only to feel the breeze or to capture the experience in a photograph. I feel blessed that my body can lead me to such places and such emotions, though it scares me to think what would happen if that slippery step ended in a sprained ankle, miles from help.

After some worthy huffs and puffs, I set my sights on food and wine. Oh, a half hour til the next bus? Might as well enjoy a glass of wine and a bowl of French Onion soup*. Toured the rest of the island on my bus ride over to Stonyridge Vineyard. I was the only customer there, on a beautiful deck overlooking the 6.5 acre grounds. I splurged on the Premium Wine Tasting which featured four reds from the site. The flagship Bordeaux-style red wine, Larose, was phenomenal. A worthy nightcap on a successful day.


A few nights later, a subtly snobby Californian and I shared a discussion. He expressed that he was relieved to meet another American, as he "couldn't stand all these other accents." After taking a deep breath, I mentioned that interestingly enough, I felt I had already adopted what I call the Commonwealth Lilt - a friendly, upbeat, almost quizzical ending to my sentences. He quickly told me that this made me sound less assertive, and that assertiveness was one of the greatest benefits of being American.

Maybe I've been assertive, even aggressive, for too many years of my life. Maybe I've never really been proud to be an American. Maybe I am looking to avoid familiarity altogether on this trip. Or maybe this Cali dude was just so quietly arrogant that I had no desire to fire back. I used to be proud. Now being humble is the true display of pride and self worth.

"Humility as a display of pride."


Auckland provided me many nights of laughter, camaraderie, drinks, and dancing. Days were dictated by the funniest things: Tuesday you wait around until 8pm for $1 pizzas. Wednesday it's raining and money is tight, so we opt for the free art gallery tour. Wednesday night is my last big night in town, so we hop from in-room wine, to the usual spot, and on to the creepy Irish bar where inhibitions are peeled away to reveal killer dance moves. Julian is a legend. Oasis' meltdown is still a heartbreaker. And sometimes you need to take a detour along the water - because it's cool to do romantic things with just yourself. Thursday you hang around the room because it's a family priority helping Laura study for her job trial.


Family is everywhere if you're willing to accept the challenge. If you're okay with being vulnerable in front of semi-strangers. If you take the time to share your passions with the girls next door. If you dare to choose adventure instead of conformity. If you are willing to embrace instability, you just might find the beautiful, quiet security within.

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* French Onion soup: perhaps my favorite food; definitely my favorite soup.

PVs:
1) Learning Celsius. Nowhere near as tricky as the lb/kg and mi/km conversions. Still workin on those..
2) Resisting the urge to play soccer, when it could have ruined the rest of my trip.
3) Allowing myself to take selfies. Never a pastime of mine, but they make sense when traveling.

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PHOTOS (Can't do captions on phone)
1. Bus broken down on side of highway
2. Pickup soccer on a beautiful afternoon
3. Overlooking Auckland from Mt Eden, after the sunset ha
4. Tramping along Waiheke Island coast
5. View from the French Onion spot
6. Private wine tasting at Stonyridge Vineyard
7. The only permissible duck face
8. This sign was up all week as NZ was winning 8-1.. The whole country went into mourning after they lost 9-8
9. Myself, Jenni, Andy, Julian, and Laura. Dorm mates from Room ***
10. Julian and Laura at the usual spot
11. The legendary performance of Eye of the Tiger?
12. Romancing Yourself Part 1
13. Just near my hostel. One helluva hill.