Carve Your Own Path

After the Tribe's decision to keep me on the bus, I felt at peace as we entered the South Island. Things quickly felt normal as we drove through what our driver Karlyn referred to as "the hippiest town in NZ".. the frequency of dreads and extra piercings made me feel like I was right back in Ann Arbor. The sophistication level changed as we stopped for a wine tasting at Drylands, though no one feels particularly sophisticated when you're drinking at 10 am.

Our first night in the South Island was spent just outside of Abel Tasman National Park, in Marahau. Karlyn served a family BBQ, and a relaxing evening was spent around the outdoor fireplace. That is, until the grunting PigDog arrived to terrorize Nico. Even I had a hard time finding love for this hybrid (perhaps inbred) creature. Gifted with two nights in the same place, we finally had the opportunity to sleep in late! Most of the group got up early for a hike, but my room of Ruth, Róna, Nathalie, and Rebecca decided to take full advantage of the extra time. I got up just in time to tag along with Nat for paddle boarding; our day off was turning out to be the best weather we'd had yet. Time on the water was quite refreshing, and we followed it up by getting a proper tan on the lawn once the other girls had woken up. Róna and I shared an invigorating trek before dinner, deciding that it's worth waiting for a mate who is equally as picky - he should be waiting for exactly the person you are too. The pursuit of live music led a group of us to check out a local band down the street.. They had a pretty cool flyer design. That's about the only nice thing I can say.. Should have listened to band-managing expert, Elaine.

By this point in the trip, I had already mailed home my failing little moccasins and was on the hunt for a new pair of 'fashionable' shoes. Somehow hiking boots and Keen water sandals just don't match dresses and dancing. The Universe heard my request, and provided me with brand new shoes (via Marie). I am sorry that they were just barely too small for you, Marie, but I am thankful for your generosity and the fact that they fit my toes perfectly.

The following day, Cape Foulwind walkway was an opportunity for magnificent coastline scenes and natural seal colonies. Our daily group photo was a creative shot using a coastal cave to create silhouettes. The caves were attached to none other than the Fox* River. I can't explain their formation, but we also saw thinly layered Pancake Rocks and runway impressions by Róna in Punakaiki.


A short while earlier, Karlyn informed us that this evening we would be partaking in his version of Come Dine With Me. I was unfamiliar with the TV show, but essentially the contestants each cook a meal and everyone votes on a winner. Since half of our bus was either Irish or English, it was decided that Switzerland would be responsible for the main dish and they would be competing against a dessert from the US. Let it be known that I was the only American on the bus, and am much more comfortable cooking than baking. No matter, can't back down from a challenge. It should also be noted that Elaine was a very dedicated sous chef, though I don't think I could have kept her away from the ingredients if I tried.

If any of you have had the honor of reading the Stout Family Cookbook, you can understand why I used up valuable international minutes to text Kitchen Czar Sue. First, I thought of making Apple Crisp or Key Lime Pie. Apple Crisp has other international variations so it was out. Key limes are so unique! But too unique to be found in a random NZ grocery store. I debated for a longggg time whether to attempt Baked Raspberry Alaskan, but just knew that it would never live up to the delicate beauty that emerges from the Hillside oven one special day each year. (By the way, Uncle Bob Vance is the only person on earth for whom my mother will bake a separate one. Good on you, Uncle Bobert!)

I sent a few frantic emails to Mom, hoping to get recipes in time for our daily grocery stop. Little did I remember that she was spending a relaxing girls weekend up north (any furry friends this year?!), and wasn't able to respond. Thankfully, the Universe gave me free wireless at the grocery store - free, working wifi in NZ is truly a miracle - and Dad had come to the rescue with the suggestion and recipe for Oreo Ice Cream Dessert. Longg story short, Marina and Nico cooked a mouth-watering Swiss dish of ham, cheese, potatoes, pasta, and apples.. and both the crowd and Karlyn decided my Oreo Ice Cream Dessert was good enough to declare a draw. A very satisfying (and filling) evening.


The next morning I was the only member of the group to choose the Bone Carving activity. This meant that I had four solid hours of time with not only Karlyn, but Karen and Dana Vincent of Skeleton Crew Carving Studio. Three cups of coffee, a few carving tools, a camouflaged outhouse, and a playlist swap later, I emerged with my proudest creation yet. I know that everyone in the organic and festival worlds wears bone carvings around their necks and in their ears, and it's cool that you bought it from that really heady vendor you met for seven minutes one summer. But I designed, carved, engraved, and sanded this puppy myself. Every single curve has a meaning, every line has a story. As Karlyn said, it's the only activity in NZ that you get to take home, and I am proud to wear a token of my unique journey.

After Punakaiki, we moved down the west coast and arrived at Franz Josef, the home of NZ's most famous glacier. Notorious for its unpredictable weather, it was not a huge surprise that the helicopter ride and hike for Franz was cancelled. Thanks to some detective work by Marina and Knut, we learned that the nearby Fox* Glacier might still be an option. And what an option it turned out to be! I am eternally grateful for Elaine's late night pep talk about the unique magnificence of glacial encounters, and I can now firmly agree. It's just dirty ice, you say.. And yet one can't help but know that the frozen landscape beneath your feet is alive . The guide said that changes happen so frequently that they have to forge a new hiking route every few weeks. A truly humbling experience. We spent the evening celebrating Nico's birthday - complete with a birthday card signed by everyone and a cake with candles. Even Mary T found something positive to say about him. Family love runs deep.


The next morning I stumbled upon the Gold Standard in Raspberry Jams. It was the highlight of a day otherwise filled with rain-soaked scenic stops and crabby passengers. I will find more of this jam. Preliminary research suggests the brand may be Anathoth Farm, but reports are still unconfirmed. Hey Universe, here's your cue..


Folks tell me they loved Wanaka. I don't know if it was the underwhelming visit to Puzzle World (in fairness, I was way too excited about it), or the general air of exhaustion on our bus, but we only had eyes for Queenstown. Quick stops at Mrs Jones Fruit Stand in Cromwell and the Nevis Bungy Jump, where I watched my Tigers force a Game 5 against Oakland. Again, Universe.. sincere thanks for the perfectly timed free internet. We arrived in Queenstown on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, where I stood for my last group photo with Stray.. =(

Maybe I didn't care for Wanaka because it signaled the imminent end to a beautiful chapter. Maybe I was already feeling empty inside at the thought of parting ways with my people. Or maybe I was just really hungry. As a solution to both of my inner voids, we organized a group dinner in Queenstown, as an early birthday party for Karlyn. It was so cool to see a table full of friends, sharing heartfelt conversations and genuine laughter.

I had the overwhelming honor of being elected to give Karlyn's birthday speech. I spoke about how less than two weeks ago, none of us had met. From Auckland, through Wellington, and now down to Queenstown.. We had picked up Stray travelers along the way and had added them to our family. I told Karlyn that the knowledge and passion and love he felt for his country had allowed him to selflessly provide us with the most thorough experience possible. After speaking with other travelers, I had learned just how unique Karlyn's approach was as a driver. He continually went out of his way to cater to each of our needs. He never skipped potential photo ops, and he always encouraged us to pursue the activities that meant the most to us. Multiple times he had expressed his lack of interest in LOTR affairs by referring to hobbits as "the little g-nomey things", and yet when he could see it was on MY list of interests, my trip to Hobbiton was more than encouraged.

I had grown accustomed to my fearless leader, to my Stray wolf pack. But whether I felt ready or not, it was time to carve my own path..


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*Foxes are my favorite // spirit animal.