Carve Your Own Path

After the Tribe's decision to keep me on the bus, I felt at peace as we entered the South Island. Things quickly felt normal as we drove through what our driver Karlyn referred to as "the hippiest town in NZ".. the frequency of dreads and extra piercings made me feel like I was right back in Ann Arbor. The sophistication level changed as we stopped for a wine tasting at Drylands, though no one feels particularly sophisticated when you're drinking at 10 am.

Our first night in the South Island was spent just outside of Abel Tasman National Park, in Marahau. Karlyn served a family BBQ, and a relaxing evening was spent around the outdoor fireplace. That is, until the grunting PigDog arrived to terrorize Nico. Even I had a hard time finding love for this hybrid (perhaps inbred) creature. Gifted with two nights in the same place, we finally had the opportunity to sleep in late! Most of the group got up early for a hike, but my room of Ruth, Róna, Nathalie, and Rebecca decided to take full advantage of the extra time. I got up just in time to tag along with Nat for paddle boarding; our day off was turning out to be the best weather we'd had yet. Time on the water was quite refreshing, and we followed it up by getting a proper tan on the lawn once the other girls had woken up. Róna and I shared an invigorating trek before dinner, deciding that it's worth waiting for a mate who is equally as picky - he should be waiting for exactly the person you are too. The pursuit of live music led a group of us to check out a local band down the street.. They had a pretty cool flyer design. That's about the only nice thing I can say.. Should have listened to band-managing expert, Elaine.

By this point in the trip, I had already mailed home my failing little moccasins and was on the hunt for a new pair of 'fashionable' shoes. Somehow hiking boots and Keen water sandals just don't match dresses and dancing. The Universe heard my request, and provided me with brand new shoes (via Marie). I am sorry that they were just barely too small for you, Marie, but I am thankful for your generosity and the fact that they fit my toes perfectly.

The following day, Cape Foulwind walkway was an opportunity for magnificent coastline scenes and natural seal colonies. Our daily group photo was a creative shot using a coastal cave to create silhouettes. The caves were attached to none other than the Fox* River. I can't explain their formation, but we also saw thinly layered Pancake Rocks and runway impressions by Róna in Punakaiki.


A short while earlier, Karlyn informed us that this evening we would be partaking in his version of Come Dine With Me. I was unfamiliar with the TV show, but essentially the contestants each cook a meal and everyone votes on a winner. Since half of our bus was either Irish or English, it was decided that Switzerland would be responsible for the main dish and they would be competing against a dessert from the US. Let it be known that I was the only American on the bus, and am much more comfortable cooking than baking. No matter, can't back down from a challenge. It should also be noted that Elaine was a very dedicated sous chef, though I don't think I could have kept her away from the ingredients if I tried.

If any of you have had the honor of reading the Stout Family Cookbook, you can understand why I used up valuable international minutes to text Kitchen Czar Sue. First, I thought of making Apple Crisp or Key Lime Pie. Apple Crisp has other international variations so it was out. Key limes are so unique! But too unique to be found in a random NZ grocery store. I debated for a longggg time whether to attempt Baked Raspberry Alaskan, but just knew that it would never live up to the delicate beauty that emerges from the Hillside oven one special day each year. (By the way, Uncle Bob Vance is the only person on earth for whom my mother will bake a separate one. Good on you, Uncle Bobert!)

I sent a few frantic emails to Mom, hoping to get recipes in time for our daily grocery stop. Little did I remember that she was spending a relaxing girls weekend up north (any furry friends this year?!), and wasn't able to respond. Thankfully, the Universe gave me free wireless at the grocery store - free, working wifi in NZ is truly a miracle - and Dad had come to the rescue with the suggestion and recipe for Oreo Ice Cream Dessert. Longg story short, Marina and Nico cooked a mouth-watering Swiss dish of ham, cheese, potatoes, pasta, and apples.. and both the crowd and Karlyn decided my Oreo Ice Cream Dessert was good enough to declare a draw. A very satisfying (and filling) evening.


The next morning I was the only member of the group to choose the Bone Carving activity. This meant that I had four solid hours of time with not only Karlyn, but Karen and Dana Vincent of Skeleton Crew Carving Studio. Three cups of coffee, a few carving tools, a camouflaged outhouse, and a playlist swap later, I emerged with my proudest creation yet. I know that everyone in the organic and festival worlds wears bone carvings around their necks and in their ears, and it's cool that you bought it from that really heady vendor you met for seven minutes one summer. But I designed, carved, engraved, and sanded this puppy myself. Every single curve has a meaning, every line has a story. As Karlyn said, it's the only activity in NZ that you get to take home, and I am proud to wear a token of my unique journey.

After Punakaiki, we moved down the west coast and arrived at Franz Josef, the home of NZ's most famous glacier. Notorious for its unpredictable weather, it was not a huge surprise that the helicopter ride and hike for Franz was cancelled. Thanks to some detective work by Marina and Knut, we learned that the nearby Fox* Glacier might still be an option. And what an option it turned out to be! I am eternally grateful for Elaine's late night pep talk about the unique magnificence of glacial encounters, and I can now firmly agree. It's just dirty ice, you say.. And yet one can't help but know that the frozen landscape beneath your feet is alive . The guide said that changes happen so frequently that they have to forge a new hiking route every few weeks. A truly humbling experience. We spent the evening celebrating Nico's birthday - complete with a birthday card signed by everyone and a cake with candles. Even Mary T found something positive to say about him. Family love runs deep.


The next morning I stumbled upon the Gold Standard in Raspberry Jams. It was the highlight of a day otherwise filled with rain-soaked scenic stops and crabby passengers. I will find more of this jam. Preliminary research suggests the brand may be Anathoth Farm, but reports are still unconfirmed. Hey Universe, here's your cue..


Folks tell me they loved Wanaka. I don't know if it was the underwhelming visit to Puzzle World (in fairness, I was way too excited about it), or the general air of exhaustion on our bus, but we only had eyes for Queenstown. Quick stops at Mrs Jones Fruit Stand in Cromwell and the Nevis Bungy Jump, where I watched my Tigers force a Game 5 against Oakland. Again, Universe.. sincere thanks for the perfectly timed free internet. We arrived in Queenstown on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, where I stood for my last group photo with Stray.. =(

Maybe I didn't care for Wanaka because it signaled the imminent end to a beautiful chapter. Maybe I was already feeling empty inside at the thought of parting ways with my people. Or maybe I was just really hungry. As a solution to both of my inner voids, we organized a group dinner in Queenstown, as an early birthday party for Karlyn. It was so cool to see a table full of friends, sharing heartfelt conversations and genuine laughter.

I had the overwhelming honor of being elected to give Karlyn's birthday speech. I spoke about how less than two weeks ago, none of us had met. From Auckland, through Wellington, and now down to Queenstown.. We had picked up Stray travelers along the way and had added them to our family. I told Karlyn that the knowledge and passion and love he felt for his country had allowed him to selflessly provide us with the most thorough experience possible. After speaking with other travelers, I had learned just how unique Karlyn's approach was as a driver. He continually went out of his way to cater to each of our needs. He never skipped potential photo ops, and he always encouraged us to pursue the activities that meant the most to us. Multiple times he had expressed his lack of interest in LOTR affairs by referring to hobbits as "the little g-nomey things", and yet when he could see it was on MY list of interests, my trip to Hobbiton was more than encouraged.

I had grown accustomed to my fearless leader, to my Stray wolf pack. But whether I felt ready or not, it was time to carve my own path..


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*Foxes are my favorite // spirit animal.

The Guide

We pause from your regularly scheduled programming to bring you a breaking news story..

THE GUIDE


He was short and stocky, hiding in the shadows. He sat by the edge of the road, watching my car slow down as I neared him. Black, middle-aged.. visibly male. My Mom made me promise not to pick up hitchhikers, but I felt like he was going to pick me up whether I liked it or not. He said nothing as I slowly walked towards him, he simply rose and began to trot beside me. This sweet black lab was offering to guide me through his world, and I couldn't say no.


I arrived in St Bathans on a tip from Kiwi Craig. Situated right exactly in the middle of nowhere, this tiny village was once the landmark of the gold rush in NZ. After years of mining, the original hill was flattened, leaving nothing behind but a stunning mineral lake and a few authentic storefronts. The rich ultramarine waters of Blue Lake are surrounded by a unearthly landscape dotted with rusty remnants of settlers past. I anticipated a nice, leisurely 50-minute loop beside the lake. The Guide* had other plans.

I made a bee-line to the toilets and was surprised to find the Guide waiting outside when I emerged - he hadn't wandered back to the car park (parking lot) as I'd expected. He wasn't impressed when I tried to pet him on the head, though he did accept a good hip/butt rub. He wasn't a lost, sad puppy dog, and he wasn't hoping to attract one either. He was there because he wanted to travel. He'd made this trek alone many times I'm sure, but was excited at the prospect of sharing these moments all the same. We just have an affinity for wandering, and love finding someone with whom to share our adventures. Did I type we? Weird.


The Guide was loyal. He was dedicated. And he was patient. He never got too far ahead without looking back to check on me. He excitedly showed me all the best lookout spots, far beyond the official track. I followed him up the rocky dunes to find breathtaking views I would have passed by, and he waited patiently while I captured the moments on film (er, memory cards). He was fearless and feisty. At one point, he climbed gingerly down a steep bank, and I watched as he took a relaxing dip into the serene blue lake. He knew all the best spots. He appeared again from another bank looking refreshed and invigorated.

I had seen him sniffing the hundreds, maybe thousands, of rabbit holes that littered the area. He had made a lazy attempt to chase one full-size hare, but I hadn't thought much of it. After losing sight of him for a few minutes, I scanned the horizon to see the Guide on top of a tall ridge, digging excitedly into the ground. Quite a noble sight really.. Ancestral wolf shining through big time. I knew immediately that he had found live critters, and I watched curiously to see how he would handle it. Finally, one tiny bunny squealed past him, over the edge and PLOP! into the water below. Before I could process, I realized that the Guide had another one locked between his jaws, still flopping about. It didn't flop long before the Guide was gnawing off its head, crunching as he went. I thought he would pick around the fur and bones, but he soon proved me wrong by gulping down the entire rest of the creature.. those lucky rabbit feet hanging out like toothpicks. By now, I was trying to find a respectable distance from which to photograph. The man was clearly enjoying a hard earned dinner, and any dog owner knows the dangers of getting too close during meal time. As he eyed me in range, I told the Guide out loud, "I don't want to disturb you. I want to honor you."

All done, right? As I moved away down the hill, having gotten my snapshots and not wanting to overstay my welcome, I realized that something or someone was squealing behind me. Four more tiny victims came bounding down the hill, kicking and screaming but unable to do so with actual purpose. As each one finally came to a fatal halt, I (naturally) moved closer to investigate. Very curious.. each of the bunnies was clearly dead, but with no visible wounds. No blood, no bite marks. The Guide had managed to end their lives.. in the most gentle way he knew how.

As the Guide finished his affairs, I pointed my finger at the four he had left strewn about the hill. I asked him what he planned to do with them. Leave them, he seemed to say.. Leave them for someone else who will be hungry. A later traveller suggested that he was offering them to me. Regardless, he took another quick dip in the lake, literally washing his face and hands after dinner. As he trotted along in front of me, I was unable to wipe the awe, appreciation, and sheer excitement off of my face. What had I just witnessed? For a few moments, I truly wondered if I had imagined the Guide, this mystical guardian angel that appeared at my feet, and perhaps none of this had ever happened. I've now checked my camera a few times to disprove this fear.


The Guide continued to lead proudly while I followed in elated disbelief. When we came to the end of our loop, he laid back down in the same place I had met him. We shared a long gaze. I started to pet him, to show my thanks.. but then I stumbled upon a better idea. Camera still in hand (actually, I used up my memory card during the Bunnie Battle, and had to run to the car to grab a new one), I audibly asked the Guide if he wanted to keep exploring. He was hesitant, not sure what I had in mind. Could my adventure live up to the one he had shown me? Probably not.. Definitely not. But I showed him my intentions by doing a quick skip-step towards the opposite end of town. He leapt up and came bounding past me, thrilled to see that I wanted more.

We carried on for another hour or so, this time it was I who dictated the route. The beautiful ruins of the old schoolhouse stood next to the long-active cemetery, and the Guide playfully sniffed around in the long grass while I read the headstones. At one point I heard a rustling while the Guide was not right beside me. I whispered, "What was that?" and he quickly came over to investigate and protect. After a few minutes, we agreed it was most likely a bird and kept going. I swear he looked at me to make sure I was comfortable before he moved on. I didn't see another person while I was in St Bathans, but I did share my afternoon with another soul.


If you think that I am fabricating the emotional capabilities of the Guide, then you have missed the sincerity of this experience. If you have never experienced the wisdom and understanding of a canine, then you have missed out on a life-changing connection. The Guide taught me a lot of things in a short afternoon.. not because I was humanizing his behavior, but because I could analyze my own on a more basic level. I didn't want the Guide to be like me, I wanted me to be more like him.. Never being afraid to wander from the beaten path. Always taking the challenging, yet more rewarding route. Having patience while your companion finds a reason to linger. Not being afraid to go off on your own, but always remembering to include those behind you. Staying loyal.. Even when a car full of new strangers arrived at the car park, the Guide stayed by my side and didn't seek to pursue the next best thing. I have a lot to learn from this whole experience, and I hope by putting it on paper I can find greater success in those areas.

The Universe knew I would benefit from a companion on my adventure, and not just any companion. Maybe the Guide needed one too, and I was able to provide him some comfort. I hope so. It was only a short-term connection, but the Universe provided me with the most wonderful Guide for both inner and outer exploration.


I will never forget the Guide from St Bathans. Without question, the most memorable part of my trip thus far.


I CAN'T WAIT TO SHOW YOU THE GOOD PHOTOS!! Gahhhh.. I even got the end of the Bunnie Battle on video. So good. I took a few photos of my camera screen just for kicks. And yes, I took a photo of myself laughing in disbelief, cuz I really did laugh the whole way back.
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PVs
Not shoving him in the car with me as I drove away.


*The Guide. Ryan Gosling's character in Drive is never referred to by name. Even in the script, he is simply referred to as The Driver. I thought about this as I tried to 'name' the dog during our walk.. But it seemed much more fitting to allow this creature to serve selflessly as the Driver of my experience, without me selfishly wanting to label it.
- If you haven't seen Drive, I highly recommended it. Actually, Mom.. it might be a bit too gory for you. ;)

Wow look! An update with real photos!