All The Universe Conspires..

“People are afraid to pursue their most important dreams, because they feel that they don't deserve them, or that they'll be unable to achieve them... But if you believe yourself worthy of the thing you fought so hard to get, then you become an instrument of God, you help the Soul of the World, and you understand why you are here.”


If you have never read The Alchemist by Paolo Coelho, please consider this my formal invitation // firm request. I will be happy to reimburse you for the cost of the book, and treat you to coffee afterwards so we can swap thoughts. The Alchemist has been read, reread, and gifted by me to many in my closest circle. What it lacks in page-turning thrills, it makes up for with spiritually uplifting perspectives. In fact, a copy made it into my bag with the intention of gifting it along the way, but the Universe* (via Julia) knew that I was better served by fresh pages on this particular journey.

“When you want something, all the Universe conspires in helping you to achieve it.”


I booked a spot on the Stray bus. We left Auckland with almost all 24 seats filled, and we groaned as our driver Karlyn (read: KAHH-lin) made us introduce ourselves and then play the Name Game. A few hours into our route, he made everyone get off the bus for our first group photo. 24 cameras in a pile.. One photo after another. After a few more hours, we arrived at an eco-lodge in the middle of the Raglan forest, and immediately took a four hour nap. We had no idea that this first day on the bus was mild compared to what was to come.

Karlyn arranged that most nights, we could all chip in and he would use that money to prepare a group dinner. Group photos, and now family dinners? I wasn't expecting this type of experience. What emerged after my (perfectly timed) nap was a bubbling pot of Shepherd's Pie, with plenty of crispy cheese lining the mashed potatoes. A fine first night.. full of food, laughter, and Rummikub.

The next morning we were off to see glowworms at the Waitomo Caves. If you've ever watched the Planet Earth episode on Caves.. this is where they filmed it. A nice group of us opted for black water rafting, and I found it interesting that members of our group were already referring to each other by name. Donning wetsuits and gumboots, we crawled and squeezed and squealed our way through the dark world. The 'rafting' was a short tubing trip through the underground river. If you talk enough smack about NZ losing the America's Cup, you will earn an extra flip underwater for it. Well worth the satisfaction.

That evening we were welcomed to a traditional Maori meeting house with full dinner spread and evening entertainment. The girls learned a hip-heavy Poi dance, and the guys learned a menacing Haka dance. I stayed up late discussing and designing a traditional tattoo with one of the tribe members. An intricate design unique to my story and my goals. I had heard conflicting reports about the cultural night, but the Universe knew I needed to stay and have my story visualized.


HOBBITON! For now I will say that The Shire exceeded my expectations and completed my childhood dreams. The hills are vast and rolling, the sheep are plenty, and the sunshine friendly. Beer tastes better at the Green Dragon pub. As I am still planning more LOTR adventures, they will receive their own post later on. Those of us that opted for Bag End did not see much of Rotorua other than a few hot springs and bubbling mud - still impressive. At this point, we picked up another Stray.. the German Terror. Nothing brings a group of people together better than the Name Game and communal distrust of another person. The Universe gave us the German Terror as a bonding tool, and we took full advantage.

Taupo was the first chance we had as a group to really let down our hair. Beautiful town on the shores of the largest lake in NZ, it had not one but two Irish bars. Half of our bus felt right at home, as we even tried to line dance at one point. Dancing continued as we got into the Element and interacted with a bit of the local flavor. Kiwi's have a way of growing on you. Let's go.

The next morning, we made a quick stop at Tawhai Falls walk for our group photo at Gollum's Waterfall! Smashing fishes on the rocks. We ventured on towards Blue Duck Station, a farm and conservation station only accessible by one narrow, hairpin road. Now read that again and picture a full-size bus with trailer attached. Upon arrival, Elaine and I were immediately glued to the farm dogs.. especially dear old Bob. I've never been happier to be covered in white hairs. Plus, I could now be sure that Elaine was Good People. A nice rainy evening in their cozy lodge led to good conversation with the volunteers, and a family dinner of rice and stew. The evening ended with Karlyn and I working on some long-exposure photos of the Milky Way. The Universe gave me a crystal clear sky on the one night I was furthest from light pollution.


The Universe also decided that I would re-injure my knee while caving underground. I was frustrated, confused. Here I am in the beautiful hiker's paradise of NZ and I'm limping? The majority of the bus got up early to hike eight hours over the famous Tongariro Crossing (active volcanoes, Mt Doom, etc.), and I sipped a coffee as they drove away. The Tongariro Crossing is no joke, and I was not surprised to see two members come back early - unable to make it past halfway. But my tweaked knee prevented me from being tempted to try.. the true blessing in disguise. Karlyn had plenty of activities to keep us distracted: photos ops across Mordor, an informational movie stop, and the more manageable two-hour Taranaki Falls Walk. Elaine and I sipped some vino in the hot tubs, no longer regretting our decision. Family dinner of curry chicken led to the creation of a joint facebook group - a place where we could all upload photos and communicate long after we parted ways. The German Terror scars poor David. The Swedish Army finally speaks. And I like em fresh.

As we drove on the next morning, I was faced with a decision. I had planned to get off the bus in Wellington and do the South Island without Stray, once I found some good people. But here I was, on Stray, and I'd found my people. As we stopped for a group photo and an actual gumboot tossing competition.. I looked around and realized how close we'd all become in less than a week. Irish, Scottish, English, Swiss, German, and even a darn Canadian. As I stepped off the bus to make a few phone calls, I returned to shouts of joy and encouragement. The tribe has spoken.. I'm staying on the bus.

Wellington provided a meeting with Gandalf and some trolls, the Te Papa museum, and a nice group dinner as we parted ways with some of our mates: Kevin, Christina, Julie, and the Young Lovers. The whole group was also super sad to see the German Terror find a different route. Wellington as a city offers so much more culture and flavor than Auckland in the north, and I can't wait to revisit it on my loop back through the country. The group made the most of their night together, enjoying an evening of live music by the Drax Project (drums + sax). Ruth and I didn't want the night to end, and we wrestled each other for fear of having to let go. Maybe. As we slept off our night on the ferry ride between the North and South islands, I thanked the Universe for Karlyn's tactics and the bond they had created.


It is hard to say which choices are 'correct'.. But if you are making a genuine and dedicated effort to achieving any goal, be it long-term or short-term, I truly believe that the people you encounter, the environments you pass through, and the mystery binding us all together will lead you to success. Success.. almost certainly defined differently than society begs you to believe, but Success.. the valuable lessons mastered along any worthy journey.

"When we strive to become better than we are, everything around us becomes better, too.”

~~~~

PVs:
1) Befriending a local, and actually staying in contact.
2) Standing in the same place Bilbo did when he shouts, "I'm going on an adventure!" If you know me, you know that I am almost always looking for the next adventure.

*The Universe: There are many different labels for the Universe. Many identify with the Christian perception of God; some refer to God, though their image is vastly different. Some consider positive energy or outward vibes. I don't particularly care what you call it, but for our purposes, I refer to the binding mystery as the Universe, since that's what Paolo Coelho uses (who is, in fact, a devout Christian).


PHOTOS
1. First group photo, outside of Raglan.
2. First family dinner: Shepherd's Pie.
3-4. Maori cultural night. Girls do Poi, boys do the Haka.
5. Hobbit hole!
6. Elaine and pups at Blue Duck Station.
7. Dear old Bob.
8. Blue Duck scenery.
9. Blue Duck sky.
10. Canadian Kevin.
11. Gumboot group photo in Taihepe.
12. Some of the gang at our gumboot tossing competition.
13. Overlooking Wellington.
14. Gandalf and I scanning for trouble.
15. Silver Fern - the national symbol.
16. The departing group, with Karlyn.
17. Ruth and myself - start of the wrestling.
18. Ruth, Kevin, and myself.
19. Our bus, Mrs. Bailey!

Embracing Beautiful Instability

Landed in NZ. On the ride from the airport into town, our bus broke down on the side of the highway. There were some 20 of us huddled on the shoulder enjoying the breeze, but having trouble keeping the cigarettes lit. The whole snafu put an instant smile on my face, as I remembered one of the key phrases for my trip: "embracing beautiful instability."


Checked into Room *** at my hostel in Auckland. (The first rule about ***, is you don't talk about ***...) A fortuitous assignment. On my first night, I hung out with the American girl who had been my server a few hours earlier. We trekked our way through the pouring rain to experience an authentic kiwi evening with some of her friends from uni (-versity). As much as I'm not here to meet Americans, Alana was a nice exception. More on the subject of Americans later.

On my first full day in Auckland, I joined roommates Jenni and Andy for some pick-up futbol in the park! Beautiful sunny day. Probably 22-24 C, so 75-80 F. While my bum knee kept me from participating, it felt great to be surrounded by such a known and adored sport. That evening, I set off on a solo mini-adventure. Hoping to hike to the top of Mt Eden that overlooks the whole city, I was warned to take the bus to the base instead of walking. Great, purchased a ticket, got on the bus, and got off at the Mt Eden Rd stop. What I failed to realize was that I had chosen the first of many stops on Mt Eden Rd. Soooo I had to walk the extra miles anyway, which threw off my timing of arriving at the summit in time for sunset. Oh well haha... Nothing to do but chuckle and appreciate the extra exercise. Early to bed that night.


My routine in Auckland consisted mostly of a morning stroll by myself as I hunted down small cafes and got familiar with the city center (and adjoining harbor). What a delightful time of day to spend with oneself. If I didn't get a good walk in the morning, I'd try to schedule a mid-day adventure. Late-afternoon/evening was reserved for naps, which left me plenty of energy for nightly romps.

I had a look at the weather to determine which day would be best for a trip to nearby Waiheke Island for some walking and some wine. Where to begin? The whole island was pitched as having countless walking paths and wine tours. I poured over a few maps and determined a general plan of action. What I thought would be a leisurely day turned out to be a substantial first experience with true NZ landscape. With the good fortune of a few wrong turns, I found myself tramping along the coastline.. a coastline streaked with tiny trails from past hooves and personal triumphs. Outrageously stunning views welcome you around every turn. Sparkling creeks run beside you, sharing the journey and chattering as you go. Birds of (seemingly) every nationality sing you the songs of their homelands. Dark, dense rock formations and smooth, reaching palm fronds.. radiantly turquoise waters lapping against beaches of various colors, shapes, and sizes. My sandals slipping often but my spirit holding strong.

For three and a half hours, I trudged along the winding, introspective trails, stopping only to feel the breeze or to capture the experience in a photograph. I feel blessed that my body can lead me to such places and such emotions, though it scares me to think what would happen if that slippery step ended in a sprained ankle, miles from help.

After some worthy huffs and puffs, I set my sights on food and wine. Oh, a half hour til the next bus? Might as well enjoy a glass of wine and a bowl of French Onion soup*. Toured the rest of the island on my bus ride over to Stonyridge Vineyard. I was the only customer there, on a beautiful deck overlooking the 6.5 acre grounds. I splurged on the Premium Wine Tasting which featured four reds from the site. The flagship Bordeaux-style red wine, Larose, was phenomenal. A worthy nightcap on a successful day.


A few nights later, a subtly snobby Californian and I shared a discussion. He expressed that he was relieved to meet another American, as he "couldn't stand all these other accents." After taking a deep breath, I mentioned that interestingly enough, I felt I had already adopted what I call the Commonwealth Lilt - a friendly, upbeat, almost quizzical ending to my sentences. He quickly told me that this made me sound less assertive, and that assertiveness was one of the greatest benefits of being American.

Maybe I've been assertive, even aggressive, for too many years of my life. Maybe I've never really been proud to be an American. Maybe I am looking to avoid familiarity altogether on this trip. Or maybe this Cali dude was just so quietly arrogant that I had no desire to fire back. I used to be proud. Now being humble is the true display of pride and self worth.

"Humility as a display of pride."


Auckland provided me many nights of laughter, camaraderie, drinks, and dancing. Days were dictated by the funniest things: Tuesday you wait around until 8pm for $1 pizzas. Wednesday it's raining and money is tight, so we opt for the free art gallery tour. Wednesday night is my last big night in town, so we hop from in-room wine, to the usual spot, and on to the creepy Irish bar where inhibitions are peeled away to reveal killer dance moves. Julian is a legend. Oasis' meltdown is still a heartbreaker. And sometimes you need to take a detour along the water - because it's cool to do romantic things with just yourself. Thursday you hang around the room because it's a family priority helping Laura study for her job trial.


Family is everywhere if you're willing to accept the challenge. If you're okay with being vulnerable in front of semi-strangers. If you take the time to share your passions with the girls next door. If you dare to choose adventure instead of conformity. If you are willing to embrace instability, you just might find the beautiful, quiet security within.

~~~~

* French Onion soup: perhaps my favorite food; definitely my favorite soup.

PVs:
1) Learning Celsius. Nowhere near as tricky as the lb/kg and mi/km conversions. Still workin on those..
2) Resisting the urge to play soccer, when it could have ruined the rest of my trip.
3) Allowing myself to take selfies. Never a pastime of mine, but they make sense when traveling.

~~~~

PHOTOS (Can't do captions on phone)
1. Bus broken down on side of highway
2. Pickup soccer on a beautiful afternoon
3. Overlooking Auckland from Mt Eden, after the sunset ha
4. Tramping along Waiheke Island coast
5. View from the French Onion spot
6. Private wine tasting at Stonyridge Vineyard
7. The only permissible duck face
8. This sign was up all week as NZ was winning 8-1.. The whole country went into mourning after they lost 9-8
9. Myself, Jenni, Andy, Julian, and Laura. Dorm mates from Room ***
10. Julian and Laura at the usual spot
11. The legendary performance of Eye of the Tiger?
12. Romancing Yourself Part 1
13. Just near my hostel. One helluva hill.

Cousins Taste Sweeter

I landed in LA with a bad cough and low energy. I want to experience every city, every moment with the utmost enthusiasm and gumption.. so to have such undeniable restrictions seemed like a heavy blow. Sometimes cousin love is just what you need.

Katie Magill had a delightfully convenient week off from work starting the day I arrived in Los Angeles, and was able to pick me up from the airport and usher me around during my ten-hour break between flights. As a host, you always worry that you are not providing enough excitement/entertainment/adventure for your guest. And yet, a long day in the passenger's seat was exactly what I needed. We stopped at the Farmer's Market for authentic taquitos and Spoon #2, and then I was treated to some behind the scenes action at Manhattan Beach Studios on Rosecrans (aka Rose Coconuts). In a massive warehouse the size of an airplane hangar, Katie's gent Daniel and his crew of kitchen gurus served us the most amazing meal of steak, duck, fish, sweet potatoes, artichoke hearts, rice, salad, etc. etc. for all the things I couldn't even fit on my plate. Danny and co. were such sweet hosts while Katie and I took time to relax and enjoy multi-lingual humor. It does not matter what your first language is; smiles are universal. 

After the satisfying grub, Katie and I took a nice long, leisurely stroll down past Redando Beach, all along the ocean shoreline. Reading through my handwritten journal, I find no less than three instances of 'GOOD COUSIN TIME!' scribbled throughout the day's events. How sweet it is, to be able to spend your last hours with someone who can be cherished for a lifetime and beyond.

When I first booked this trip, some wondered why I had decided to spend my time and money on a detour to Seattle and Los Angeles, when instead I could go straight to New Zealand. I admit, at the beginning I did not know exactly why my intuition was drawing me to do so. But, in accordance with my trust in Foresight and Fortitude, I knew there would be immense benefit in scheduling my trip this way. I could never have guessed the benefits that came from the juxtaposition* of comfort and encouragement from those you love.

The night before my departure in Ann Arbor, I came up with a silly 'nurse' task that required cousin Jenni Stout to spend valuable hours with me as I made my final preparations and considerations. I treasure the moments with my loving, kind, thoughtful, and clever cousin as we laughed and pondered over what I might encounter in the coming months. I now carry with me both the massively informative New Zealand travel book, as well as very charming leather journal, now full of my inner thoughts. I have her to thank for the success of many of my wanderings and wonderings.

Enter cousin number two, Julia, who was such a gracious host as I ironed out many of my untested travel tips, and who provided invaluable tips of her own that have now become staples in my travel life. What a joy that I am now able to tell you that a third cousin was integral to sending me properly on my way. I feel very blessed that Katie was able to nurture my sick, tired, yet enthusiastic self just moments before I left the country. Throw in Ali and Michelle, two of the friends I hold most dear to my heart, and I now know exactly why my side-trip was so SO important. 

You don't have to come from the same blood to provide the best nutrition. 

ALSO: On the Fiji Airline trip from LA to FIJI, I received the best air-meal. Curry chicken with rice and lentils. Ceasar salad with chicken. Fruit Salad. Dinner roll with butter. Crackers and cheese. Twix bar. Triple chocolate brownie. Water. Free beer/wine of choosing. And a sense of appreciation strong enough to carry the plane.

~~~~

* juxtapostion. My favorite word in the English language.

PVs

1) Giving up the need for good handwriting in my personal journal. Most of you know how big of an obstacle this is for me to overcome.. so the fact that I can see two misspellings, one grammar error, and countless barely-legible items is monumental. However, I don't have time to worry about my execution when I'm on a bus//boat//tiny hostel mattress.

Myself, Danny, and Katie.

Danny's beautiful dinner spread.

Spoon #3 from Fiji!

Fiji Feast.

In Seattle You Can Keep Your Belt On

Blogging is funny, in that it is now Tuesday 9/24 in NZ, but I am just now getting to post about... Monday 9/16 evening in Seattle. I shall have to update more frequently, if only to alleviate my own confusion haha.


Sooo.. at our last meeting, I had just arrived at cousin Julia's hostel in Seattle. After a few hours rest, Ali Schumacher picked me up and we drove to the tip of West Seattle - Alki Beach. From there you can see across the water to the skyline of downtown Seattle. 

We opted for Mexican fare at Cactus restaurant right on the water. It was so wonderful to catch up with Shmal (Ali) - the type of friendship that barely skips a beat. I truly grew up around their family and so was very happy to hear about everyone's status. My parents and I saw Bo & Terry (Berry) at a UofM basketball game last year, so I knew they were still kickin at least -- and never without an Airedale. Cactus provided delicious food, and quite the service! Our server gifted us with free flan for dessert.. a great omen for the trip. Whether or not he was expecting a phone number in return, we shall never know. ;)

That evening, I crashed hard at the hostel while Ju worked her last shift for a while. I think I fell asleep by 10pm and didn't wake until noon the next day. Some jetlag, but mostly just trying to kick a cold I developed the day before I left Ann Arbor. Gross! The slumber did me well, and Ju and I spent Tuesday afternoon putzing* around Pike Place Market. Started with a few scrumptious crumpets and soaked up the many colors, textures, smells, and smiles that fill the market area. I think it was great that I was there mid-week, as I can imagine how crowded it gets on the weekends. I picked up my first spoon of the trip! (I do collect those little souvenir spoons. You might giggle, until you see my collection.. close to 50 now I believe! Full of color and charm and lasting memories.)

After Pike Place, we ran a few errands. Ju picked me up a copy of The Sabbath by Abraham Joshua Heschel, which was her own 'travel book' on her recent journey through Europe. It encourages us to place value not in space (material items, things of the man-made world) but rather in time (the eternal spiritual gifts). "Observing the Sabbath (day of rest) is not only about refraining from work, but about creating menuha, a restfulness that is also a celebration." What a great thing to keep in mind as I experience 'not a break but the climax of living, reclaiming my authentic state.' Many thanks to Ju for a thoughtful and portable token. 

After the errands, we stopped for a piping hot bowl of clam chowder (seafood naturally tastes 400% better when you're not in the middle of the country), and enjoyed a relaxing evening in her (new!) room. A quick trip next door for happy hour sushi (the whole city has TWO happy hours.. one just before and one just after dinner) compliments of Uncle Bob. Miso soup is equally as warming as chicken noodle soup.


Wednesday, we walked down by the water to enjoy coffee and pastries. Quality coffee tastes better black. I don't blame you Midwesterners for taking cream and sugar, but if you ever find a great coffee in your hand -- please for the love of god, keep it black. On our way past the Intergalactic Sewing Tool, we stopped at the EMP Museum which featured killer exhibits on both Jimi Hendrix and Nirvana. Next time I will be sure to hit the fantasy/sci-fi section (not sure why I was so quick to dismiss it this time), but I would suggest skipping the 'Women of Rock' area altogether. It was not much more than a display of the ridiculous outfits worn by women on stage, including Lady Gaga's meat dress. Seriously, don't bother.

My good (concert, festival, and real!) friend Michelle and her stud Harry drove up from Portland Wednesday afternoon and we had quite the evening. Beginning at Hopvine Pub in Seattle's Capitol Hill neighborhood, we originally were planning to see Julia perform for open mic night. Distracted by pitchers of beer and international debates about facebook (FB really does have over a billion users), Ju's name conveniently got added late and wayy down the timeline of performers. What luck! Ju (and hostel friend Miguel) could now mahalo it up with us at The New Mastersounds concert in Freemont neighborhood. A packed crowd joined us at an indoor/outdoor venue and we boogied all damn night. We did not end up scoring Michelle and Harry tickets to the show in Portland for the following evening, but Simon DID formally welcome me to Seattle. Scuzz scuzz scuzz...



What struck me most about Seattle was the understated friendliness and general air of acceptance. Perhaps I just assumed both coasts were rather 'stuck-up' compared to the middle of the country, but as someone put it... the West coast just isn't as aggressively friendly as the Midwest haha. Quite true. Everywhere you looked was a different 'genre' of person. Punk, grunge, preppy, athletic, casual hipster, etc. It would be hard not to fit in in Seattle. As I boarded my plane to leave the soft sparkle of the Emerald City, I was allowed to keep both my belt and shoes on when going through security. I guess anything goes in this city.

~~~~

Personal Victories (PVs):
1. Enjoying mushrooms. I've always appreciated the flavor of the earthy ingredient, but it wasn't until my bowl of miso soup that I legitimately enjoyed the texture.
2. Biting a massive sushi roll in half, while maintaining grip with my chopsticks!
3. NOT starting beef with an Ohio State fan while at the concert, despite significant egging on from friends *coughcough* who know where my loyalties lie. I avoided all conversation with the lost soul shrouded in Scarlet.


* Putzing. Defined online as: to engage in inconsequential or unproductive activity. However, it occurred to me after hanging with cousins Jenni and Katie, that in the Stout clan, putzing is slow-paced yet entirely productive activity. Whenever I think about putzing I envision Grandpa Chuck Stout (and also my own father) on a Saturday afternoon.. too much work ethic to sit on the couch all day, but not enough energy to move at a fast pace. What ensues is a relaxed but consistent project completion rate. Putzing is good activity with a great attitude. 

Stout n Shmal.

Pike Place Market

The Crumpet Shop. Nom nom nom.

Coffee and pastries overlooking the Seattle coast.

View of the Seattle skyline from Pier 66.

Obligatory Space Needle pic.

Jimi Hendrix. Born in Seattle. Sanctified in London.

We're calling it: "Are You Experienced?"

At the red popsicle with Ju, Miguel, Meech, Harry.

The New Mastersounds. Simon says: drummers are the most attractive.

Julia and myself in front of City Hostel.

Michelle, myself, and Harry.. just mahalo'ing it up.

Concerned Traveller Thinks Everyone On Plane Can Hear Her Music

On a Monday morning flight from Detroit, MI to Denver, CO, a young woman found herself overly concerned with the volume of her in-ear headphones. Terrified that surrounding passengers would be able to hear her tunes, the woman repeatedly removed the earbuds to test for noise pollution.

The gentleman to her far right was rocking his own earbuds, leading the woman to claim, "There was no trusting his opinion," though he had recently shown a legitimate interest in her Banksy pin. The other woman in their row actually paid money to watch CSI: Miami on the in-flight personal TVs. Again, the concerned music listener was left without reliable tipsters nearby.

Remembering a bit of related advice from her wise father: "It's okay if you snore, airplanes are LOUD," the conscientious traveller decided that the only solution was to turn her headphones up even louder.

In a stroke of luck, the plane landed two hours later without a single noise complaint.

~~~~

Nice flights from Detroit to Denver and from Denver to Seattle. Resting in cousin Julia's hostel, City Hostel, soon to be scooped up by childhood best bud Ali "Shmal" Schumacher for an evening of food and laughter. Tomorrow, Ju and I hope to hit Pike's Market, see the Intergalactic Sewing Tool, and take in some Pacific breeze. Seattle is cool. I put on my dark grey skinny jeans to blend in better.

How loud are these things?

Banksy pin, as viewed by neighbor on plane.

Watching SportsCenter during a two-hour flight. Rough.

Window view over Denver-ish